No problem at all Drivesafe. This is what I actually wrote:-
This was on the thread "Alternator Capacity".Quote:
Originally Posted by wilbur
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Hang on there rmp, going on your specific guide lines, I saw incorrect information in Wilbur's post and I corrected.
I was not rude nor did I call him a liar, I just made reference to something he had already posted.
And for the records, the info I have posted relating to the way D3 electrics work and why they do so is based on info supplied to me in a number of confidential E-mails from LRA’s then boss of Technical Training.
This is the block who trained LR staff in Australia. I didn’t source my info from some two bit jurno's book or get sucked by grossly misleading advertising. I got my info direct from LRA.
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What is our next contentious subject? :)
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Regards
Peter
My 18" rims are better than your 19" rims, because they are :o:o :D
Cheers Anonymous :wasntme: :wasntme: :wasntme:
Wilbur, why on earth did you recommend people read a book you have not read, a book written by a journalist who, contrary to your claims, has NO AUTO ELECTRIC qualification or experience. Collyn Rivers is nothing more than a journalist.
This is exactly what I have been “RANTING” about, the misinformation being passed off as facts
Caravan and Motorhome Books - Collyn Rivers
how about people make their own minds up.
Drivesafe - communicate with Wilbur on this by PM. Wilbur, same for you.
No more.
Hi rmp, and all that trumpet blowing doesn’t alter the fact that Collyn hasn’t got the foggiest idea about the subject at hand and surprise surprise, I have locked horns with him on many occasions.
One of his favourite lines is that ”Cranking batteries will not be charged above 70% SoC by an alternator” and then he always follows this with the line “As backed by battery manufacturers”.
Sound familiar, and the same thing happens, no matter how many times Collyn is asked to name just one of these battery manufacturers that supposedly back his claim, no response.
He was also caught out on another forum about 12 to 18 months back when a newbie to caravans, posted up a question about how to run his 3 way fridge off his house batteries while camping.
For those not acquainted with this, running a 3 way fridge off house batteries is an absolute NO-NO but Collyn didn’t know this and went into explicit details on how to wire up the guys van and how long he could expect to run his fridge off fully charged house batteries and so on.
This is from someone who is only to happy to tell you how much of an expert he is, yet he went very quiet when a number of caravan owner posted up that Collyn had it wrong.
Running a 3 way fridge off house batteries for more than a short time, like while you fuel up and the likes, will destroy the batteries in no time flat.
Not only did the self proclaimed expert have no idea of the damage that would have been done to this guys batteries, had the guy not been given the correct advice, but Collyn actually tows a caravan.
And this is not the first time he has given completely erroneous advice and been corrected.
BTW, he use to post his title in his Signature as being an Automotive Research Documentation Engineer. He don’t post that anymore, not since it was pointed out that in plain english, it mean he was nothing more than a secretary.
As I have posted, what is needed is some HONEST INDEPENDENT scrutiny
Okay time to give this all a rest.
I suggest anyone who is unsure of the correct direction to PM those with the knowledge. With all the chatter on these, hopefully most have enough up top to be able to read between the posts and nut out what they need. And if in any doubt. Ask more questions of those doing the install or LRA directly.
if its needed I can run an off vehicle simulation I now have a small diesel engine thats sole purpose in life is to run an alternator and a compressor.. I also have 2 identical capacity batteries that are currently running in parallel.
Im happy to run a real world worse case scenario test with my existing direct parralell hookup as the control providing both parties are happy to provide one of their units to replace the parralleling wire.
the basic test would be done with both batteries at 3v starting point checked with a meter and a hygrometer the engine started then tested every 15 minutes until the second battery reaches an agreed charged voltage/capacity.
more to follow if people are interested and the respected parties want to come play.