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Thread: D4 2" square trailer receiver hitch..

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Northern Victoria
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    The hitch is cast steel and it would be possible to drill a hole and then weld a nut on. Then use either a 8mm or 10mm 'unbracko' bolt to tighten things up.
    This bolt needs an allen key to do it up so the chance of someone taking a fancy to your tow hitch is reduced.

    ivanR

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Gladstone
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    I was having some feedback issues with the van attached. So the father in-law and I had a bit of a play packing some shims into the receiver this solved the loose fit problem and the thump from the van.

    But just packing with shims seemed like a bit of a short cut. In my father in-laws case if it worth doing its worth over doing.

    Given that any hitch fitted will pivot on the center locking pin we went for 3 bolts on the under side of the receiver. There is enough thickness to drill and tap the holes for the bolts.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    NSW Riverina
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    Thanks for the feedback guys, I have just returned from Griffith where I visited a Caravan/Trailer specialist to get their view. I left the receiver hitch & tow hitch with them to play around with. Basically they weren't prepared to drill into the receiver hitch due to its cast construction. I understand this, but would like to do this all the same. They put some welds on the receiver and filed until there was a tight fit. Obviously this doesn't solve the overall issue.

    I also purchased a u-bolt large enough and a fish plate from a trailer to have a fiddle with.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Gladstone
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    If you look at the receiver it has already been drilled and machined. It isn't fragile cast iron.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Western Victoria
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    I bought a few of these for another application.


    They cost me a little over $10 each. I bought a few spare.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
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    After stopping the gooseneck from rattling in its receiver, I now find that the tow attachment isn't quite tight in its socket. It doesn't look as though its going to fall out but its certainly going to wear the contact surfaces and get worse the more its used. Do others have this loosness? I'm inclined to add a brace between the top of the new anti-rattle bracket and the recovery hole but that's going to make removal even more work. I use the trailer regularly and it was quick and easy to remove the pin.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Does anyone know if the reverse sensors are meant to know if something's on the hitch? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Mount Martha
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart02 View Post
    Does anyone know if the reverse sensors are meant to know if something's on the hitch? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!
    This happens to me as well with the bike rack. It is normal.
    Cheers, Craig

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sunshinecoast QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart02 View Post
    ? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!
    You can just turn them off when the bike rack is on

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    No switch on some models. It only knows if the elecrrics are plugged in.

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