It was discovered that some of the chinese ones did not grease the gears and it was found if you packed them with grease it lasted a lot longer.
Cheap chinese is ok for occasional use but not if you are going to be regularly winching.
Tigerz are far from cheap by comparison to some others. And while not the fastest, coolest running etc, like anything it comes down to how it's treated. The 8274 I just bought was only $300- because the guy was a tool and "burned out the motor mate, I'll cost a thousand to fix that". New set of brushes and off it went.
It will be occasional use. I think I have used the hand winch about 3 times & the winch on the work Tojo didn't get used for 12 months before we got stuck at the dump.
So I would expect that it may be used once a year.
Then again having a winch & 17" Coopers might make me more adventurous.
Jonesfam
Hey Jonesfamily, Just a quick note in regards to dyneema ropes, makes sure you keep it as clean as possible particularily if you are using it in sand as the sand can get inside the outer layers of the rope and will chaff through the internal syntheic threads especially under heavy loads. The real issue is that a visual inspection shows no outer signs of wear but can part whilst in use. We've actually stopped using dyneema for this reason, {WA has alot of sand}at least with wire a visual inspection is easy.
NB. I'm not saying don't buy it just look after it as for occasional use it'll be fine.
Hi Jonesfamily,
I have the Tigerz11 12000lb single speed winch on a D4. I installed it myself so it can be done. It comes with dyneema rope and somtimes with some accessories depending on what the current ad in 4*4 mags is saying. I got my via ebay from a 4x4 place in Victoria with no issues. Not hard to install after you have done it, but a bit of a worry you might be wasting your $845 bucks before you do it. I just though I was having it so I could say I had one, but I might be still on the CREB track if I did not have it. That was a good day! Tree trunk protector, winch extension strap, dyneema rope, got them all out of their shrink wrap that day. Also used the driving lights as it was dark by the time we got out of there and got back down the Bloomfield track. Salesman was right again, never know when you need good lights!
The areas to consider.
1. Physically mounting the thing.
I managed to get mine mounted without taking the ARB Bar off. Had to lower the holes about 3cm to miss the body work, but means I can get it on an off without taking the ARB Bar off. A useful thing I got off another forum is to cut heads of some 3/8 bolts to put in place temporarily to help position the winch and stop the nuts falling out as you try to put it in place. Once in place just unscrew them one at atime and put the real ones in.
The bit of aluminium was my template to locate where to drill the new holes.
I mounted the control box flat like this, just removed the little angle bracket.
2. Offset Fairlead Hawse and dyneema rope.
This is the aluminium thing that rope goes thru. The one that comes with the winch is what is seen in Old Salts picture. I put an offset one on as below. I think this gets the rope in a better position in relation to where the drum is. Old Salt might be able to comment of his. If you want to do this negotiate the swap as you buy the winch as its $90 after.i.e get it instead of the normally supplied one.
I don't leave the rope on the winch. I successfully put it on when I needed it when I got stuck on the CREB track on recent Cape York trip.
What I did was file the sides off grub screw on winch drum that holds the rope, and also slotted the eye in the end of the rope so I can push it though the fairlead hawse and hook it up when I need it.(Put a bit of loctite on the grub screw so it goes nowhere)
Also you can give it a bit of a wind to check its still going with worrying about the rope. Have read somewhere giving a bit of a wind it good maintenance.
3. Rotating the gearbox on the winch
You will need to rotate the gearbox about 3 holes worth of the 10 holding it on to get it around about 108' so it in the correct place.
This uTube shows how to do it.
4. Wiring the electrics.
This is pretty straight forward. The control box has 3 short cables, colour coded red,black and yellow from memory. These go to three terminals on the winch with matching colours. The long red cable on the control box goes to the battery. The extra long black cable goes from the earth point near the battery to the winch case. They were all the right length and did not have to change any of them. The ones up to the battery/earth point I ran in some conduit up past the windscreen washer bottle.
You can see here how I connect to the battery. The black thing with the grey tape unscrews to isolate the power to the winch. You screw it up to give power to the winch. It is supplied as part of the winch.
Its a bit dirty in there, have not cleaned it up since being to cape York and back.
Only other wire is a small gauge black wire they goes from the winch case to the control box case to make sure it is earthed.
Hope this is helpful, a bit of payback for all good stuff I have gotten off here.
Disco4now
Thanks so much for your very good post & instructions.
I think I will see if I can fit it myself, partly for the experience & partly because it would be cool to do.
The other factor is I would have to wait till after the wet to have someone else fit it. The roads are usually closed here by then.
Thanks again.
Jonesfam
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}at least with wire a visual inspection is easy.
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