Thread: HDC, Transmission and Suspension Failure Indicator

Originally Posted by Graeme

I thought asbestos in brake material was outlawed many moons ago.

The new "asbestos" ceramic and metallic replacement concoctions merely kill you in an environmentally safe manner; the only good dust is Outback dust and that is best found Back and Beyond.

Originally Posted by Graeme

I thought asbestos in brake material was outlawed many moons ago.

2003 sorry still mask at least before blowing them out to be safe would be a good idea.

"Asbestos Free The big news in 2003 is the total removal of asbestos in Brake Linings. (Pads and Shoes). Asbestos has in the past been the single best product for friction control however we all know the dangers that have developed with the abuse and use of Asbestos in building and commercial applications.
While less of a worry, Asbestos in Brake Linings has thankfully been officially banned from Manufacture and supply in Australia from the end of 2003."

Thanks to everybody who has contributed. I will do brake switch and bulbs. If that fails I will do the methodical fault testing with water.

Just got mine back. ECU pins corroded, Ritters suggested the corrosion might have been contributed to by the battery I changed recently putting some acid in the air near the ECU in the battery box. New one installed after trying to clean the pins failed.

Few other minor tweaks service and a bill. Should be right now for another 220,000km. I had the brake light controler changed but it did not seem to be the problem as mentioned on the UK site. It could have been changed before I got it of course.

Checked about changing the diff oils? They mentioned by the book it might be 160,000km. Must get that done next time given my habit of using mine as a duck on river crossong, it might be better to do it a little more often than this I guess. Ritter mentioned the rear and centre diff can have the oils changed but not the front? This seems odd.

For three days work or stay at least the price was not unreasonable given the list of work completed. A 1974 rangie was in the shop given me a reasonble expectaion of taking my D3 past 500,000 and well beyond with a little TLC from time to time. Saw a D4 with 20 inch rims and know why I do not expect to evolve up unless Landrover brings out a non-hamstrung 4wd again.

Originally Posted by weakestlink

2005 D3 SE
Just saw all yours and raise you a few with limited gears, hazard lights coming, central locking going nuts and other bits. restarting sometime gave me no engine ignition the engine did not turn off or the key would not come out

Just did Oonandata track lake Eyre with no issues at all. We were relaxing with or rewarding the better half in the Barosa valley. Several inches of rain overnight and starting the next day saw my errors. - at least the camper trailer stayed dry

Restarting and several hard resets oddly after a hour of mucking about it all or mostly seemed to reslove itself and 800km back to Melbourne with only minor bugs. It is clearly an electrical fault, I have a new battery, new altenator recently (just checked them anyway and they look fine 12.7 with engine off and 14.8 running)

One fault is transmission - high range only- this is sticky. Going in for a 220,000km service Monday. Then a sparky is going over the whole truck- I will let you know the outcome.

Originally Posted by weakestlink

I had the brake light controller changed but it did not seem to be the problem as mentioned on the UK site. It could have been changed before I got it of course.

Ritter mentioned the rear and centre diff can have the oils changed but not the front? This seems odd.

The newer brake light switches have moulded into the plastic on the exterior, the FoMoCo logo rather than the Land Rover oval.

My dealer changed the oil in my front differential when they did the oil change in the rear diff, (133,00 km, both per my request). I had done the transfer case, (91,000 km), during a previous service visit as well as the transmission at about 126,000 km. The timing and km was more to do with my wallet than any great plan other than I like to service a lot of the routine stuff between 100 and 150 thousand kms.

Back to the drawing board. Brake switch changed, globes, new battery, new alternator, new ECU, checked and cleaned most earth points.

This morning suspension yellow error, then red with speed limit warning followed by a substantial loss of engine power with ECU error. ECU error stoped and power back on while I was still moving. Suspension error goes back to yellow.

Saw the suspension error come off and on twice more.

Oddly I just had her up on top of a high country mountain on Saturday night on a solo hunting trip. She preformed perfectly even after a four wheel bog so deep I had to climb out the passanger side door. Could not open drivers door. The two errors make me think this is still an eletrical fault. Where the fault is is proving very hard to find.

Weakestlink,
Was the battery replaced before or after the problems started? If after, it may have a broken internal connection.

thanks Graeme
Ritter changed both front and rear Air suspension crossover valves( tried rear first but errors still occured)

Engine (ECU) error code suggested me having a foot on the accelerator and brake at the same time. Not sure of this. I noted a error on my electric brake controler and wodner if this might have replaced my foot on brake for the error code. Will run it for a while seeing with and with out electiric brakes for a while.