Thread: Wheel nuts ?

Since I posted, I removed one of the OEM lug nuts off my LR3 and did a sketch of it re dimensions. It seems that overall height is 46mm and I note that the lug is drilled right thru from top to bottom. Since it is fitted with the SS cap, then the top hole is of course not visible.

For the non hatted chromed lug nuts, it makes sense that they would be taller as they are not drilled completely thru.

The part number of the lug nut for my 2005 is RRD500290 but this was superseded after VIN 8A450459 to newer part number RRD500590. I am not yet clear what the difference is between the two part numbers but it may have something to do with the SS hat at the bottom.

I note per the jpg, that the hat on the 290 nuts stops at the outside edge of the larger perimeter. It may be that for the 590 nuts, that the cap rolled over the top edge down to the lower edge for improved sealing.

I will see my dealer next week and if he has the 590 in stock, look at it more closely to see if there are any obvious differences.

Hi Guys,
I think that if you use a 12 flat socket it causes the swelling as it doesn't grip on the flats of the stainless cover as well as a 6 flat socket that comes with an impact driver socket set. Thats what I now use on mine and no further swollen nut problem. REPCO sell 6 flat sockets in the correct size.
Regards
Barryp

I went over to my dealer today and carried in one of my OEM 290 lug nuts and got him to dig out from stock, a brand new RRD500590 lug nut. I had my caliper with me and checked all the measurements. As well as looking identical, the 590 measured out identical to the older 290 design.

The SS cap shape was identical and it still cuts off right at the top edge, same as the 290. I had thought that maybe there would be some difference in the hat design but if so, it was nothing obvious.

Maybe the 590 has some kind of sealing material under the cap that the 290 lacks, but I cannot tell. I think for the most part, the swelling occurs because dampness gets between the cap and the metal of the hex and then corrosion sets in. I would agree however that a six sided socket is a must as the 12 flat no doubt has a greater tendency to "rip" the SS cap at the corners.

I only use 6 flat sockets but the damage was already done when I got my car. My experiences with the similar nuts on my previous D2 and my desire to use an impact driver (I remember reading somewhere that impact drivers should not be used on the standard nuts) made the decision to change nuts easy.

This is odd, or either the D4 nuts are a tad smaller, I tried a 22mm socket on my nuts and it seemed a tad too big, I then tried a 7/8 socket with the same result, I'm thinking that 21.5mm is the size or 13/16.

I'm getting rid of the stupid flimsey wheel brace (and jack) and replacing them with something a bit stronger, got a Bottle jack and wheel brace with a removable socket but the 22mm socket is a tad too big, which why I'm soarcing the 13/16 as you can't get a 21.5mm socket, well I can't and not from a lack of trying

Any ideas.

Baz.