Thread: Which Disco 4 upgrades?

Well stated weakestlink,

The tyre pressure monitor is more for my wife as she drives it during the week and is forever picking up nails/screws/shaft of a small screwdriver and it would be handy for her to see a slow leak early rather than later. I have only ever had one puncture for as long as I can remember, all be it that that was a major blow out.

Your reasoning is sound and I will certainly give it very careful consideration. I may purchase the Traxide auxiliary battery kit and try to fit it myself. Worst case if I cannot do it then I can take it to an auto electrician.

Regards,

Glyn

p.s., any one know how to add a signature line. I followed the instructions and cannot find a place for it.

The Traxide kit is easy to fit - the DVD of instructions makes it a doddle ...
cheers

Originally Posted by Glyndwr

Hi discowhite and Tombie,

Tombie: The snokel is OEM. Where do you live so I can bring the car round for you to fit the auxiliary battery for $453.50?

discowhite:

1) Is your auxiliary batter under the bonnet or in the back? Just so as I know whether to insist it goes under the bonnet as I have heard that there are problems placing it there and some people opt for putting it in the back. ive got 2 under the bonnet (3 batt's all up) one in front of the main and the other drivers side next to the abs modulator. there are no problems with fitting the batteries under the bonnet. the thing was that they would get too hot, the under bonnet temps are cooler than both my V8 D1 ute and my old TD5 D2.

2) Does the LLAMs height controler live up to your expectations?
i dont have one, i went with gordons adjustable rods.

3) Are you happy with the Tyredog?
dont have that either..yet..

I will keep in mind upgrading the transmission pan. I am going with Davis Performance Landys at Amaroo Park.

Thanks guys,

Glyn

and for the OEM RAI, it can easily be made water proof...like mine and as tombie said it fits better than the ''other'' brands out there.

cheers phil

If I knew previously what I know now I would have had fitted as soon as my engine was changed for a new long motor a 'water trap' on the fuel line.

Mine originally had a hard to start issue when cold that through mechanic mistakes end up needing a new engine under warranty.

But when they started it back up after fitting the new engine it still had the hard to start issues, Autologic showed that two injectors were outside the accepted limits and that was the problem. They replaced one only at that time as they were out of stock. When I went back 5,000 k's later and they put it back on the Autologic it was found that most of my injectors were near to or outside the accepted limits.

Why did this happen? Crappy fuel from frigging Woolworths outlets. If I had fitted a water trap when the engine was brand new then they would still be ok.

It only takes one tank of real bad fuel with water contamination to screw up your injectors and there is no way of fixing them other then replacing them.

How does it drive now with dicky injectors, pretty much fine, very hard to tell there are any issues other then the fuel economy not bing as good as some others. But I can't wait for next winter when it gets cold again and the hard to start issues happen all over again.

I know its not sexy bit of gear but personally I would recommend a 'water trap' to anyone and everyone as being at or very near the top of their 'to do' list. When my injectors get real bad I'll get a new set and a 'Water trap' at the same time.

cheers,
Terry

Originally Posted by TerryO

I know its not sexy bit of gear but personally I would recommend a 'water trap' to anyone and everyone as being at or very near the top of their 'to do' list.

I would have fitted one long ago but for the risk of LR rejecting a warranty claim for a faulty injector pump or injectors, although no warranty due to bad fuel anyway so damned either way. The local mechanic wont fit one to his new diesel because the Toyota dealer has told him that warranty on his fuel system will be voided if one is fitted. I might decide to fit or have fitted one anyway, rather like replacing D2 double cardon unis with greasable ones within the warranty period.

Originally Posted by Glyndwr

I am looking into some upgrades for my Discovery 4 TDV6. I already have a bull bar with driving lights and a rear wheel carrier and jerry can holder. The next kit I am looking at getting, in order of priority and some quoted prices are:

1) Snorkel - $869
2) Auxiliary battery - $907
3) Power chip - $800 if they can access the chip to $1200 if they can not access the chip
4) Tyre pressure monitor - $420
5) LLAMS height controller
6) Water watch trap assembly
7) Oil cooler

My questions are:
Do these prices seam reasonable (any recommended places I should go to for quotes)?
Does the order of priority look about right?
Is there anything else I should be considering?

Regards,

Glyn

You don't have tyres on your list? I second a UHF, too. Cargo barrier, on board compressor... As much fun as power upgrades are, I'd put everything else first...

Does anyone know how good/high the diff breathers are on D3 and 4s?

Thanks oldsalt, I will order it today.

Thanks discowhite, I shall make sure I am very carefull in my research on the snorkel.

Thanks TerryO and Graeme, I was going to wait until I am going more remote. However, as most of our fuel comes from Woolworths it may be prudent to bump this up the list as insurance.

Thanks Suart02, I have a UHF on my list of camping gear rather than car modifications. The cargo barrier is one I have missed as a safety item. I have a compressor. The tyres; well everyone has their own ideas on this. I recently sent to the Temora Air Show with a few mates and they all had different ideas on tyres. The only thing they agreed on was to get light truck rated tyres. So I am investigating the best light truck all terain tyres to put on. I am also interested in the diff breathers after Pat's last show. I mast remeber to make sure this is OK at the same time I get the snorkel done.

Regards,

Glyn

My advice would be - CHANGE your fuel supplier - I have a "friend" who tests fuel for a section of the Aust Tax dept - and some of the horror stories I have heard about "supermarket & independent" dealers fuel quality would make your hair curl ... I think I would rather PUSH my D3 rather than put that crap in it !!!!
Stick with Shell - BP or one of the other big names and you'll be pretty safe ... and a dose of something like "fuel doctor" occasionally to help clean out some of the "bugs" and water residue won't hurt either.
cheers