I got it in Adelaide from the people who sold me the car, $80 bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
Personally, changing it at 80,000kms for $160 is cheap, was told L/R recommends change at 200,000kms.
Cheers Ean
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I got it in Adelaide from the people who sold me the car, $80 bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
Personally, changing it at 80,000kms for $160 is cheap, was told L/R recommends change at 200,000kms.
Cheers Ean
Yeah well ,stuffed if im paying $80 a litre ,when you need 1.6 litres for the T/case and 1.6 Litres for the rear E/diff. (so basically you need 4 litr bottles for $320 !!)Found a substitute oil for $40 litre (aint that cheap either !!!)that even looks/smells/and feels like what it had in originally.yes the vehicle well out of the warranty period. (2005TDV6 170000K).Got the good oil from another member whose recently done a Lap around Australia,towing ,with no issues .(no,will only use the ZF stuff in the auto Trans )Front diff Im going to use REDLINE super impact.
Hi Garry,
I agree, by nature humans like to have a choice, when manufacturers force the specific brand using warranty as the ultimate safety curtain people don't have choice, I deal in a premium grade synthetic oil (IMHO) and listening to people telling me how expensive the oil is and it is a "rip off etc etc and yet they've just paid $20k+ on a lot of occasions to rebuild the engine. Then come back for more and "bleat" again despite the engine surviving no amount of abuse, usually in drag cars. Oil is cheap insurance, and that is it, the better the oil the better the insurance the lower the risk.
Saying that some expensive oils still don't cut it. Can't win this one. Once people find a good oil that works for them they will stick to it in every vehicle they ever buy until something goes wrong, then it will be the oils fault no matter what really caused te problem.
My $250 worth, it is worth more than 2 cents......... LOL
Hi There,
Nice to meet Sat morning, thanks for the LLams demo, ordered mine this morning, fantastic. I've been reading a few threads, not sure why I haven't gone down this track earlier. Nice to see a unit working as it should.
Well a damn site better than Ford ATM. Still the second highest seller of passenger vehicles. With the Cruze looks like they will take back #1 next year.:p:angel: The only reason Toyota are #1 overall is they sell so many 4x4s to commercial companies.Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryO
Go to any auto store and you can get parts for the v6, V8 old holden, V8 EFI Holden and the V8 Chev engines, plus most parts easily. Pretty much the same for Ford, but they just dont sell.:twisted: Even though Holden did specify Dexron IV and was a little difficult to get it did not take long for it to be available easily.
Try buying bits off the shelf for a LR, a BMW or a Porsche of the shelf anywhere outside a dealer.
Even wreckers for parts a lot of wreckers I know wont even bother buying a LR wreck.
Agree Redline oil is probably an alternative, obviously prices have come down a bit. I remember a couple of years ago doing dare I say it, we did a mates 100 series Cruiser and the Redline oil for the two boxes cost $300 and that was at trade.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
At $40 a litre better value than the LR stuff.
There are always alternatives, just depends on if your vehicle is in warranty. Just look at the R380 always was ATF as advised by LR, now LR dont even recommend that.
Been slack and have not asked the question, but you are down the road from us right. Blue V8 Disco and D3?
Cheers
CraigE
Well, what is it ? and does anyone really know what the Shell stuff is ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
BTW, Redline Shockproof is total overkill for the front diff (I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'impact' ?
Standard Redline 75W-90 diff oil is fine.
Yeah your right rick130, its the shockproof stuff ,Ive used it in every rover diff Ive ever owned (except for the E/diff D3 ) PM Nomad9 for new stuff .
CraigE ,thats my 88 Hi-line RRC on the 33's , and Cleavers 2009 TDV6 D3 ,my D3 resides in Perth,SWMBO's!!
CraigE, thats Frenchies D3 and he just sold the D1 ,(thats after he ripped front wheel off it and I replaced the whole front end LOL)
Have just got around to having to change my own transfer case oil on the D3, and asking the perrenial question, what oil/fluid do I put in it?
I now have it on 2 solid authorities on Disocvery3 Auto boxes and transfer cases, what fluid to use.
I am told with great certainty that auto box and the transfer case both take Lifeguard 6 (The ZF fluid).
I got the advice on the transfer box from the guys who have serviced it for past 450,000k's and from the guys who re-build and install most of the autos for the Land Rover dealer in WA and many other Land Rover service places, so I have to go with that advice.
Even the office receptionist told me she thought it was Lifeguard 6, when she went to confirm with the main service person (the guy who rebuilt and fitted my auto 150,000 k's ago).
Have found a good economical source for this fluid and trans filters/gasgets etc, is a motor spares group called Motospecs, branches in each state (part of Repco group, but they don't work together).
I usually buy a 20 litre (cheaper rate), for when I change trans fluid, but they sell smaller containers.
I was told that also by same auto box shop.
The theory however was shot down here when I shared it though for reasons I cannot recall - different colour, smell, taste?