Hm... Something wrong with that chart,, :confused:
3lt is definitely 5w30
If you ring Castrol Techn they are really good and helpfull :BigThumb:
Cheers Ken
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Happily changed the oil on my 3.0L engine using the LR fitted suction tube and my ebay puchased vac pump. How easy is that! What's more no getting under the vehicle and no mess. :D
It was another story when it came to getting the filter element to separate from the filter housing. Looking into the centre of the filter element as it sits inside the housing there is a circular cage arrangment and some attachment bits at the bottom of the housing, (top of the housing if its in position in the car). Anyhow after much mucking around with no success I thought it better to put the new 'O' ring on and re-use the old filter (it did not seem to bad) until I understand how the filter element can be dissengaged from the housing.
Basically I was not game to really force anything. I generally have this 'luck' that usually means if it can break and is a part that is not esay to obtain, it will!
Is there someone with a D4 3.0L who knows the trick to getting the element out of the housing or is there a 'special' tool required:confused:
LGM
Mine just pulled out without any drama. A set of long nose pliers was on hand in case it was stuck.
So the bits in the middle just stay there?
Yes, just pull the filter out by grabbing inside the top edges.
Hi all, seems like an old thread for some reason but its title is specific for us newish D4 owners (MY16) who want to jump in and do an engine oil and filter ( I believe filter is more important) change between the 26000k first change as required by LR. I too have the vacuum pump ready to extract the engine oil, now need to find the correct filter, it would seem from previous info that the older D4 had a clip arrangement for the cartridge, newer models just pull off and push on.
Finally managed to purchase the correct oil (Castrol Edge Professional A5 5W-30 at Maxiparts , Rocklea, 20l for $ 306 . Now need the filter cartridge , my old source has gone (FWD Yerongpilly), any place in Brisbane? or do I rely on ebay.
I must say that getting that oil as used by the dealer was odd, I tried at Repco and was told next day only available to dealers, hmmmm.
Cheers:)
I had to try the fuel/oil suppliers main depot for the correct spec. oil as I've no intention of using the same oil for 26K.
Castrol techs. said use only their Castrol Prof C1 5 -30w and no other. $327 for 20ltrs same price even for trade..... :o
Well known in Perth indi. says they and others have got LRA to accept Penrite Enviro C4 5 - 30.
"Oils ain't oils" as the adv. used to say...... pain in the arse and an expensive one as well. :mad:
AlanH.
Hi Alan, Yep not happy to accept the long drain intervals imposed by the EU and we cop it with high spec oils required as the dealers will only use them (understandably) for warranty purposes.
Of course we cant get them over the counter or your local auto shop so find a Castrol distributor/sub distributor but thats cheaper anyway. By the way C1 is for a DPF, if no DPF then A5, hmmmm.
Cheers Steve
I've been using the Penrite C4 in mine. Bought in 20L for around $200. My
Engine still runs 25000km later [emoji3]
Yep , all these oils will keep our engines running forever compared to the old days when Castrol GXL was considered top range, I will not cross brands at the moment and use what the dealer uses, later maybe (out of warranty) Nulon,(goes in the TD5) etc. and easier to get but thats years away.