D4 3.0L Oil & Filter Change

Hi Agro. I got it off Ebay for 52 bucks delivered to home in WA. Came with 3 different thickness tubes and holds 7 ltrs so is big enough for our vehicles easily.
And made the job just so easy. [biggrin] Few pumps on the handle and out it came but I'd waited a few minutes to let the oil drain down same as I would for the stone age way of dropping it....... [wink11] When it stopped waited a little longer then that extra bit came out.
iepoch was the name of the seller/company I got it from. Delivery a bit slower than they said but it still got here within about 9 or 10 days.
AlanH.

Possibly late to this party ......however I changed my oil today in RRS 3L . when checking the oil level it would say overfilled .... I managed to pull 7.0 l out !
Have changed oil n filter - using genuine filter and Fuchs oil . The oil is a pain as it comes in 5l packs so need to purchase 2 .
So I purchased a vacuum oil extractor from Bursons , I already had a 32mm socket .
The bits and pieces cost me approx the same as an oil service .

its actually very easy and takes approx 30 mins . Attachment 129339Attachment 129340Attachment 129341

Points of interest .
Capacity is 5.9l -I have put approx 5.5l in will adjust accordingly ( oh for a dipstick )
Oil filter housing is 32mm socket , do up to 25nm - with a torque wrench !
The oil extraction port is right in front of you ! But LR keep it a secret .

i think the later models have the extraction port in the oil filler hole , 2012 on ?

Buy a vacuum oil extractor , they are great !

Hopes this helps in the future .

Does a 2011 2.7ltr have an extraction hole? I've been doing it the old fashioned way

If it has a dipstick ,the tube is small enough to go inside and down to sump .

no more crawling on the ground , or removing protection plates !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rextheute

If it has a dipstick ,the tube is small enough to go inside and down to sump .

no more crawling on the ground , or removing protection plates !

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I've read this is not an effective method on the 2.7D?

Easy to check. Do it. Then open the drain. Collect the oil from the drain. Determine how much remains. If it's a litre, it's not cool. If it's a hundred odd ml then winner.

i bought one of these >> 60W 12V Oil Diesel Extractor Suction Pump Transfer Fluid Change Car Boat | eBay which for the coin spent, was well worthwhile. Takes a couple minutes to drain the sump, but no mess. i needed to buy a 6" section of 5mm silicone hose to make it work, the supplied plastic hoses werent a good fit for the extrator tube on the engine. love doing nice clean oil changes.. :)

for oil, i use Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Diesel Formula Long Life Engine Oil - Nulon Products Australia , though bought from costco it comes in 6LT container for $49 .. this ones good for DPF or no DPF. i looked up the specs and its only a tiny bit different being ACEA C3-12 vs the recommended ACEA A1/B1 * which i cannot find anywhere in commercially available oil.. Might have to buy a few if they are going to be limited...

interestingly, the latest LR website has castrol Edge professional as recommended.. Castrol Edge Professional Recommended by Land Rover(R) Australia where the only diesel oil i can find that meets the 5w30 spec is listed as ACEA C3 - this from the castrol website for that oil: Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL is suitable where the following requirements are called for:API CF ,ACEA C3, MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51, Porsche C30, VW 504 00/ 507 00, Fulfils the requirements of the former VW 503 01 specification, Suitable for use in vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filters

oil specifications can be researched here: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org , and https://www.acea.be/uploads/publicat..._Sequences.pdf

so for the landrover recommended spec: ACEA A5/B5 >>

ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

and for non DPF vehicles ACEA A1/B1

ACEA A1/B1Category is removed with the ACEA 2016 Oil Sequences. From ACEA 2012: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

and finally, the spec now recommended ACEA C3

ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

Seems that they now have decided that minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa*s is acceptable, vs the older specs 2.6 - 3.5

Hi, so from what I’ve read, we can now use an ACEA C3 rated 5W-30 oil, and it seems others have confidently used non OEM oils including Penrite and Nulon products.

It also seems that using the vacuum pump method is preferred / better way to change oil.

I’m looking at giving it a go, and was reading about various engine oil treatments you put in just before an oil change, apparently for removing build ups etc. Has anyone used these sorts of products before?

Im changing oil every 6 months, but not happy paying dealer prices anymore. I figure i can do a standard oil service for about 120 bucks (filters etc from Rimmer Bros, the oil from local suppliers)

Any thoughts?

Eric

Please just buy oil that meets the relevant Ford specification from the OP. It’s not difficult. Penrite do the Fully Synthetic that meets the 913 spec for non-dpf or enviro c4 which meets 934 spec for dpf or non-dpf models. Alternatively the Castrol Magnatec Professional is listed to meet the Ford specifications, if you can find it. I just wouldn’t deviate given the number of bearing failures.