Running a power feed to the rear of D3

**Glynhouse** · 17th February 2012, 11:43 AM

Morning all,
Is there an easy way to get a decent power feed down the passenger side of a D3, I have all the cables etc. from my old vehicle and would like to go straight from the battery down that side rather than across to the drivers side then down and back to the passenger side again.
Spent all morning poking around and can't find how to get through the firewall.

Anyone any idea what the 2 power boxes with a Ford brand on them are under the front seats ? I do not have memory or heated seats. Fairly large loom goes into them then it appears 2 cables into the rear of the seats ?

DD

**PaulGOz** · 17th February 2012, 04:41 PM

i had a look on the lhs a while back and nothing obvious presented itself. l would go down rhs and then cut back across in the rear you could do this in third foot well or under rear tailgate. as always make sure you fuse or cb the line there are many sharp edges under the seats if u go that way

**Josh_WA** · 18th February 2012, 11:07 PM

Have you tried http://www.disco3.co.uk. Heaps of great info over there.

Traxide ( drivesafe on here) sells a dual battery wiring kit that has instructions how to run the wires. There's a tutorial on here somewhere as I remember stumbling on it when I had my D3.

Good luck.

Cheers

Josh

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**sniegy** · 19th February 2012, 10:27 AM

Hi DD,
I would steer clear of poking so to speak on the passenger side as in behind the glove box is the CJB & you wouldn't want to poke & short anything accidentally.

There are 2 ways of running cables down the side of the vehicle.
First is go across the engine bay & enter via a grommet on the firewall.
Second is to run across the top of the chassis on the same side & enter via the grommets either in the floor if you don't have rear A/C or the tail lights.
From memory there a a couple of small grommets at the rear also.

The "boxes" under the seats are amplifiers, again stay clear of these units too.

Also what do you intend on installing, gives us a better idea of what's required to better help you

Cheers

**shining** · 19th February 2012, 04:43 PM

I put my fridge connection from the second battery UNDER the vehicle and from memory came back inside through the tail light grommet (from memory...it was 2 years ago!) the only tricky part was, I followed the rear wheel guard liner and that 1 metre section probably took half the time in running the cable. But the rest of it was very easy and was all done in an afternoon. This was on the drivers side but might work equally from the passenger side too.

**lmoro** · 19th February 2012, 04:52 PM

Hi,

I have the same need. My new caravan has the fridge comong out on pin 2 of the round plug, which is the reverse pin I believe. I need to get a 12v feed to the socket which is at least 6mm to take the current. Fridge draws 18 amps.
what would be the best way to do it?
Cheers, Laurie

**Glynhouse** · 19th February 2012, 08:39 PM

Thank you all for the replies, I have decided discretion will be the order of the day and leave that side alone ! "poking" was a figure of speech sniegy, I dropped the glove compartment took the battery cover off spent half an hour with a torch decided to came and ask ! Not my scene that stuff.

I do know Tim from Drivesafe (to speak to) he has supplied all my heavy wiring for the van, would love to just grab one of his kits but I have all that I need already.

Proposing to run a heavy lead from the battery to the small switch board from the last vehicle, that will be situated on the passenger side just in front of the 40ltr. fridge. From where I run the fridge hard wired to a pair of terminals, and 2 cigarette plugs for assorted charging, and a small sine wave inverter to 240v.
I have more than enough of genuine 8B&S cable already fitted up that I will use, the battery end has 2 X 30 amp C/B's in parallel to give me 60 amp overload protection which is all from the Anderson plug set up from the last vehicle.
I also need to pick up a switched feed probably from the white plug to hook up my relay controlled solenoid which will feed the 12 volt through an Anderson plug to the 12 volt compressor fridge in the van, it is no longer used to charge through at all, solar does that on its own.

While I am at it I will also run a direct power feed and earth to the brake unit using 6mm cable that I have, rather than as was done by the dealer picking them from the rear lights through a 5 wire pre-loomed trailer cable that I know is 3mm auto, far too light for me for the distance it travells. I will leave the live activating wire as per sniegy;s posts from the rear and join 2 or 3 of the wires that will now not be used to give a decent sized feed to the brakes (normally the blue wire). Might as well use it, save me running a new cable.

I hope you can make more sense of all that than I do when I re-read it ?

The advice I have been given by the "Experts" up here is that it will be O.K as long as I use the earth posts supplied in the vehicle and there is plenty of them , and only take power directly from the spare hole in the battery connector as supplied on the vehicle, not actually from the terminal bolt. Correct ?

Still planning,
Many thanks

DD

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