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Thread: RAIs

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco4SE View Post
    I have heard the same thing.

    BTW: Has anyone noticed a difference in either power or economy??

    Cheers, Craig

    my OE LR RAI is sealed, easy 20min job.
    i reckon it suits the D4 shape better.
    yes it makes some induction noise, mainly only noticed in low speed low range driving, i mainly drive with the windows up so i dont see the problem.
    as for power, dont think it lost any power as such, but it did increase the length of the turbo lag. bluefin fixed that thou.
    economy couldnt tell.

    cheers phil

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by discowhite View Post
    my OE LR RAI is sealed, easy 20min job.
    I understood that getting the pipe out that joins the intake to the airbox is a real pain - your 20min job comment indicates it is relatively easy - did you seal all the little holes in this pipe or replace it with something else.

    The main reason I ask is that I will be fitting an RAI in a couple of months and want it waterproof.

    Also the main chamber in the airbox has a rubber one way valve in the bottom that in theory should let water out but not in, I assume this can be left as is. There is a secondary chamber that just has a drain hole at the bottom but has no valve so in theory can let water in - I assume this is sealed to keep water out - I will probably put in a one way valve in this hole as well. Water can still make its way down a snorkle (particularly if it faces forward - not an RAI issue) and this water needs to be able to drain away in the airbox.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
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  3. #13
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    Has anyone purchased the LR RAI local? If so, at what price are the dealers asking or should I just go online and save a few $$?

  4. #14
    dominicbeirne Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I understood that getting the pipe out that joins the intake to the airbox is a real pain - your 20min job comment indicates it is relatively easy - did you seal all the little holes in this pipe or replace it with something else.

    The main reason I ask is that I will be fitting an RAI in a couple of months and want it waterproof.

    Garry
    Hi Garry

    Hopefully these bits and pieces may be useful for you.

    DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Waterproof RAI?

    DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Removable Snorkel

    Land Rover Discovery 4 - Raised Air Intake Extra Parts - LR013711LR020024

    Cheers

    Dom
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #15
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    Thanks Dom,

    Looking at the pdf instructions I can see why it only took a short time to install the RAI.

    Looking at those links, posters have said that the airbox is sealed but seemed to have missed the secondary small chamber that has an open hole at the bottom - it is only the main chamber that has the little one way rubber valve at the bottom. So the airbox is not sealed.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #16
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    Are the extra parts, the elbow and tube, required?
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #17
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    From what I have seen in this discussion am I right in saying that the 3ltr does not have the drain hole at the bottom of the air box like the 2.7?
    Maybe this is why the elbow has holes in it specifically for the 3ltr so that any water that enters the RAI can drain through the elbow. I have just had a look at the airbox on my 2.7 D4 and there is a drain whole about 5mm diameter in the compartment on the front of the box. There is no one way rubber valve though and it appears to drain into the cavity between the body and the plastic mud guard. I was sure there was a one way valve on my D3. Can anybody confirm this? I can't see that this would be a problem when driving through water but could be if the car was left in water for a long period of time.

    Thanks to everybody for their info.

    Discojools

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I understood that getting the pipe out that joins the intake to the airbox is a real pain - your 20min job comment indicates it is relatively easy - did you seal all the little holes in this pipe or replace it with something else.
    yes mate, i replaced it with some 65mm(?) convoluted air pipe. think you can get it from pirtek etc? just undo the staples the hold the old ends in place and refit with the new pipe and sikkaflex. the hosee its self comes out easy. push the inner guars bit in and pull it all out the air box end (after the air box has been removed)
    after that use a piece of high density foam to make a seal between the inner guard and the RAI body, again sikaflex the foam to the inner guard, then when to refit the RAI it will push on the foam and make a seal.
    The main reason I ask is that I will be fitting an RAI in a couple of months and want it waterproof.


    Also the main chamber in the airbox has a rubber one way valve in the bottom that in theory should let water out but not in, I assume this can be left as is. There is a secondary chamber that just has a drain hole at the bottom but has no valve so in theory can let water in - I assume this is sealed to keep water out - I will probably put in a one way valve in this hole as well. Water can still make its way down a snorkle (particularly if it faces forward - not an RAI issue) and this water needs to be able to drain away in the airbox.
    i didnt touch the valve, might do one day? from what i remember i thought it was in a different chamber, or had a wall between it and the filter, like a dam wall?

    Garry
    cheers phil

  9. #19
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    Phil -Thanks for that good information. Was intending to wrap the old hose with that waterproof tape that moulds on bonds to itself but if the right size hose is freely available then that is the way to go.

    The secondary chamber in the airbox does have wall/dam on it which is about 2" high. Not likely to be an issue when actually fording but if you came to a stop, even for a short period of time, water would come in that hole and fill the little chamber and overflow into the bottom of the main chamber and slowly fill up the airbox (whether there would be an air pocket at the top stopping water going into the engine I am not sure - you would have to plan for the worst and hope for the best.

    Not sure why they designed it like that - I assume that it is to help water exit if the little valve in the main chamber stays closed and lets water out if it has been sucked in via the external inlet in the guard.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #20
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    After speaking to a couple of LR specialists I have decided to be boring and go for a Safari as it comes with a replacement for the porous pipe and saves quite a bit of hassle, uncertainty and is a better price. Garry, I could not see the rubber one way valve in the main airbox.. Will have a look again tomorrow. They may have deleted it on newer cars.
    Thanks for the advice anyway.

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