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Thread: D3/RRS Air Compressor

  1. #11
    marco110 Guest

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post

    As I said before the whole design of the mounting system is crap and not worthy of the vehicle - whether it be D3 or RRS.

    Garry
    I'm agree with that ................

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by marco110 View Post
    I'm agree with that ................
    Especially the top bolt of the bracket.

    I have had mine off a few times and the connectors have worked ok after cleaning and WD40. You need to push in the collar and push in the pipe. They work by forcing a metal seal against the platic pipe by air pressure. This can result in the colar biting into the plastic which needs to be freed. With 240psi it seals reaaly tight.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    Especially the top bolt of the bracket.
    Initially I totally removed the top cover to gain access to the top bolt, which included refitting the cover after the top bolt was refitted - a bit of a struggle. However last time I removed and refitted the top bolt with the top cover in-situ by judicious use of 3/8 drive socket and extensions to get the top bolt from below the sill - a much easier way.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  4. #14
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    Well the piece of crap has finally did me in - just had a major dizzy attack while underneath the car so all work has come to a stop - dizzy attack most likely brought on by trying to put in work arounds.

    The larger of the two air pipes would not come out and had to be cut off - with a lot of jiggling around with the compressor out of the car it finally came out - unfortunately the o ring inside was dislodged and the teeth on the collar were bent - the o ring has a piece out of it and needs to be replaced - long weekend so no action until Tues - o ring is a special heat resistant one so will take some effort to find a replacement.

    I think I will take the air compressor to the local hose place and get a new connector installed - tempted to not put the same type type in and get it tapped out and put in a normal screw in brass connector.

    I need to get some more 10mm plastic hose but of course the landrover stuff has a larger inside diameter (thinner wall) than normal high pressure 10mm plastic pipe. I may have to order a new complete section from Landrover $$$$$$$$$$$.

    At the rear of the air compressor there is the above mentioned 10mm hose and there is a 8mm hose which is OK - what does the 10mm hose do?? Is it the intake for the air compressor and therefore low pressure???? or is it an outlet with high pressure to the system.

    So at the moment the car has no air compressor and is at offroad height. On start with no air compressor fitted of course there is the fault - why does TR also not work - can understand height issues but not TR . I assume that when I get up to 50kph it is going to drop - how far?? All the way to the bump stops or to access or onroad. Is there a way I can get it to only go as far as onroad so I can at least drive the car until I get these things sorted?

    As the air compressor is out of the car, should I take out the desiccant and put it in the oven for a few hours (at what temp?)

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #15
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    Fun isn't it?

    The Outside diameter is what matters for the connections.

    You can put the beads in the microwave until they change colour. I would seive before and after to get rid of the fine particles which can clog the filter pads.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    Fun isn't it?

    The Outside diameter is what matters for the connections.
    The inside diameter also matters as there is a brass insert that goes in the end - with thicker wall tube having the brass insert in causes the outside to be a bit larger than 10mm and will not fit in the connector in the air compressor.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I assume that when I get up to 50kph it is going to drop - how far?? All the way to the bump stops or to access or onroad. Is there a way I can get it to only go as far as onroad so I can at least drive the car until I get these things sorted?
    I would leave it at off-road height. The non-functioning pilot exhaust valve wont stop air from being released from the springs so it should be able to return to normal height but who knows what logic might be applied. Anyway, wont you want it at off-road height to refit the compressor? I would remove the engine bay suspension ecu main fuse.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #18
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    The 2 pipes at the rear of the unit are both low pressure - 1 is the air intake and the other the exhaust. I suspect the larger one is the intake but haven't been able to confirm that yet.

    Edit: Exhaust is 10mm, inlet is 8mm.

    Joiners are suposed to be available as LR spare parts.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #19
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    I assumed you were connecting tube to tube or your OEM fittings in the compressor were ok.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I would leave it at off-road height. The non-functioning pilot exhaust valve wont stop air from being released from the springs so it should be able to return to normal height but who knows what logic might be applied. Anyway, wont you want it at off-road height to refit the compressor? I would remove the engine bay suspension ecu main fuse.
    Thanks - I have it up on ramps and can get to it - the compressor has now been in and out so many times I have its installation down to a fine art.

    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Exhaust is 10mm, inlet is 8mm. Joiners are suposed to be available as LR spare parts.
    So as they are low pressure special connectors are not really needed so all I have to do is join the connector on the compressor to the cutoff 10mm exhaust pipe with some flexible rubber vacuum hose that I can get tomorrow.

    Also - I can put the air compressor back in, connect up the 8mm pipe which is OK and it will all work OK without faults even with the 10mm pipe not connected at this stage - as long as I do not do any water crossings, where the exhaust vents to at this stage should not be an issue.

    Unfortunately at the moment as soon as I lie under the car I get rehabilitating dizzy attacks so will try tomorrow when hopefully I am better.

    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    I assumed you were connecting tube to tube or your OEM fittings in the compressor were ok.
    The 8mm fitting in the compressor is OK, the pipe now has a join in it but is all serviceable. The problem is the 10mm fitting - the OEM one is damaged but given it is exhaust and low pressure it will hold. When I had to cut the pipe it meant it was now too short so I tried to join it as I had the 8mm one but the join for it is too long as the pipe needs to turn through 90 degrees next to the compressor. Not an issue as it is low pressure - rather than using a brass connector I will just use a piece of rubber hose. As long as it does not allow water ingress it should work OK.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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