Thread: Extended height mode

Extended mode comes in when the car realises all four wheels are spinning and it's going nowhere. This may be when you're bellied out, or as has happened to me, just on a very slippery with no chance of being bellied. I was on quite a sideangle at the time so wasn't particuarly thriilled with having the centre of gravity raised ;-)

Once you're in Extended you can go into Super Extended as per the other posts. That you can control.

Do be careful with the throttle in high suspension settings as CV joints etc aren't at the their strongest.

Personally I would prefer to decide when the car goes into Extended....but now we can some measure of control with LLAMS!

<insert standard rant about lack of driver control of Land Rovers>

When it's at it's maximum height, be careful if you decide to hop out. Its quite a drop.

Brett....

So back to the original question

'so how does the extend high work? should have I took it out of drive and pushed the switch for extra height?"

So appears that most agree that is NO magic button, indeed a set of circumstances shall be met to enable extended mode , also not clearly enunciated in the manual either. Not quite sure of where he was going with should have I took it out of drive
thats another question!!

Originally Posted by rmp

Once you're in Extended you can go into Super Extended as per the other posts. That you can control.

Do be careful with the throttle in high suspension settings as CV joints etc aren't at the their strongest.

RMP,
Small alarm bells ringing. Just how much 'not at their strongest'. I understand, without too much thought, that the angles imposed by extreme limits would create higher stress, but are the CV's that affected that you will need to take it easy? I would imagine in certain situations and if needing extended height, you may also need some serious grunt under foot. Are you simply stating this as in all cases with high stresss angles on CV's, or is there a need for more caution with the LR CV's?

Only case I know of was giving it full welly on full lock when in extended height.
You can get it to go into extended heightby putting it in off road height, putting a block of wood under the chassis and lowering the hieght to normal. It will automatically put it into extended. So not about wheel spin but height sensors.

Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

So back to the original question

'so how does the extend high work? should have I took it out of drive and pushed the switch for extra height?"

So appears that most agree that is NO magic button, indeed a set of circumstances shall be met to enable extended mode , also not clearly enunciated in the manual either. Not quite sure of where he was going with should have I took it out of drive
thats another question!!

A 'Set of circumstances' is probably the easiest way of looking at it and it is nothing to do with what gear it is in.

As for the 'Super' Extended Mode; If it goes into 'Extended Mode', just put your foot on the foot brake and then press & hold the suspension lift button for 3 seconds (until you hear another 'chime').

M

Originally Posted by Mungus

RMP,
Small alarm bells ringing. Just how much 'not at their strongest'. I understand, without too much thought, that the angles imposed by extreme limits would create higher stress, but are the CV's that affected that you will need to take it easy? I would imagine in certain situations and if needing extended height, you may also need some serious grunt under foot. Are you simply stating this as in all cases with high stresss angles on CV's, or is there a need for more caution with the LR CV's?

It is the case with all CVs and driveline components irrespective of manufacturer.

If you want to snap something this is how - find a hill with good traction, select low range reverse, full steering lock, angle for maximum suspension flex and then stab the throttle. Bang will result in pretty much any car.

The lower the gear, the more gentle you must be with the throttle. The greater the suspension flex and steering angle, the more gentle again. Therefore, in Extended/Super-E modes be gentle with the throttle and keep the wheels as straight as you can.

There may be circumstances where you need lots of throttle and Super-E mode. However, I have seen many a car break by drivers applying large amounts of hoof to the throttle. So I would suggest exiting the car and doing a little roadwork, maybe winching, even giving up rather than force things. It's hard to give exact rules, but any more than around say 1700rpm in Super-E mode and I'm thinking something else needs to be done.

By the way if you do snap a CV in a Disco put it into Rock Crawl so it can still move.

Unlike previous Landies, the drivelines in D3/D4/RRS is strong and not prone to breaking. The cars have other bush problems, but strength of transmission is not one of them! However, strength does not mean they are tolerant of abuse, as I said I've seen them break.

I'm pretty sure I've posted a few dozen times on this, but for the benefit of new members having trouble with the search function ...........

1. The car will enable extended mode if all 4 wheels are spinning and there is no forward motion, OR if it senses an obstruction when lowering. Extended is approx 35 ~ 40mm above whatever height you happen to be in.

2. ONLY when in extended, emergency (or super-extended) can be selected by the driver. With the vehicle stationary and motor running, hold down the brake pedal and select-and-hold the "up" position on the EAS switch until the car chimes. It will then raise a further 30mm or so (it is dependent on the individual car's calibration, amongst other things).

3. In either extended or emergency height, the car will lower back to the original height setting as soon as you exceed 8kph, travel for more than 45s continuously, restart the car or change TR setting.

If you need to raise the car to it's MAXIMUM height, without waiting for it to select extended height automatically, then follow this procedure with the car stationary, engine running, in low range and in Park:

1. Place the car in whatever TR program required (normally rock-crawl).
2. Raise the car to offroad if it has not already automatically raised (as it should when you select a TR program).
3. Use the LR jack and position it under the driver's jack location under the chassis rail. Wind up the jack until it has just taken the weight of the car (you can do this by hand).
4. Get into the car, close the driver's door and select "normal" height with the EAS switch. Don't apply the footbrake!
5. The car will attempt to lower, sense the obstruction and then raise 35mm above offroad.
6. Now apply the footbrake, and hold the EAS switch in the "up" position until the car chimes and raises a further 30mm or so.
7. Remove the jack from under the car!

Not every step is required in some situations, but if you follow all 7, you're guaranteed to get the car to raise. Note that the jack should be on firm ground, or you should have a footplate for it, to prevent it being pushed into the ground by the car (and hence it will not raise).

As rmp has pointed out, be careful with the throttle and full turning lock when at these heights. You almost NEVER need a heavy throttle when in rock-crawl, so don't be tempted to try it. The CV's are very strong, but any vehicle on full lock and at extreme wheel articulation will stress the CV.

Cheers,

Gordon