With the Mitch Hitch downward forces are shared between the vehicle recovery point where the cross bolt and nylon spacer go and the two rear bolts that bolt the hitch to the safety chain holes cast into the OEM tow hitch socket.
Pulling forces are shared between the above three points but also the OEM tow hitch socket as there is a metal fitting (something like the top end of the plow)that goes in there and is held in place by the rear bolts (rather than the OEM locking mechanism).
So any one point is only taking approx 1/3 of the overall load - even in a breakaway.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Just wondering what type of cast is used for the cast section of the tow hitch reciever , Does any one know if the cast is Grey or Ductile cast ?? .
I also expected cast steel however as it appears to have snapped rather than distorted I'm not at all sure. I suspect filing with a fine file would reveal its nature but I'm no metalurgist.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Hi Garry,
I know that the chains allowed extreme articulation as I had just left a very tight spot in a full caravan park and had to reverse onto the van at about 75 degrees –chains went on fine, but I made a bit of a mess of the grass as I pulled away.
The hitch on the caravan is the standard Jayco hitch, as are the chains and shackles. Nothing is modified on the van or vehicle.
I don’t know exactly why the caravan departed, but as I said in my last, the one area that I can’t prove as being 100% is the caravan hitch lock as I didn’t put a lock through the eyelet. So whilst I’m 99% sure that it was fully down, the lack of a secondary physical mechanism means that I can’t be 100%.
There was no failure of the tow hitch arrangement, just the safety points.
I note your comment about the shackles, but I don’t want to start another thread as they performed as expected - there are days worth of reading on the topic of shackles on caravan forums.
Hope that helps,
Paul
Paul,Originally Posted by PaulD68
We drove 250 kms with 3.5 tonne of horse float behind....hitch weight 340 kgs.
I thought I dropped the hitch lock down and put the pin in....but must not have. Made it down safely probably due to the very heavy weight. Felt like a dill when I went to remove the car.....felt extremely lucky. That kind of weight detaching would not doubt break my point as your did where the chains are attached. I have very heavy chains and 2.5 tonne for each shackle....more than enough to handle the break.
I will be double checking from now on.
Brett....
Thanks Paul.
I have a OziHitch on my van so unless I forget to put the pin in it should be OK. However I have a standard tow ball socket on my box trailer and I ahve on a couple of occasions put it on and the tongue on the inside was not seated but noticed it before any damage was done - I never lock the side lever (though I check it is in place) but after your experience I might change that.
Now of course the lugs on the side of the OEM hitch should not have failed but I think using the recovery ring as the point the chains are connected to and using the lugs to only activate the breakaway brake mechanism might be the better way to go if OEM gear is being used.
Thanks for your candidness.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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