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Thread: Turbo cooling D4 3.0

  1. #21
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    Nov 2007
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    I havent picked up the car yet, do so this week. Ill definitely have a look through it and Im sure it will be helpful.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Mount Martha
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    Quote Originally Posted by dultim8 View Post
    so is foot the the floor a good way to run them in??
    dultim8, I am lead to believe not to over rev a new engine, especially a diesel, however dont be afraid to work it.
    I was a bit weary about towing my 2.2 ton boat on a four hour trip not long after I bought it (only travelled 1,500Klm's). According to my father in law, its the best way to run it in.

    Once the engine is run in, certainly dont be afraid to 'blow the cob webs out' every now and then. Just make sure that the engine is at running temperature.

    Cheers, Craig

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Milperra NSW
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    I drive side loading garbage trucks for a living and these vechiles work load is rated as severe service, hard on transmission, engine and especially the cooling system due to the low speeds.
    We blow turbos up every now and then but According to our mechanics the best way of extending their life is regular oil changes. If the vechile has been working hard and hot idling down for a couple of mins in theory should help prevent the oil from boiling in a hot turbo, but it dosent seem to make them last any longer.

  4. #24
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    Oct 2009
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    St George Dragons Territory, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by dultim8 View Post
    so is foot the the floor a good way to run them in??
    More fun to find a big steep hill with lots of dirt/sand/mud etc stick in 2 low and haul up it, then let it idle for 2 min, turn around go down and do it again until you are happy. Could take all day !!!

    Now that is a great excuse to get you new D4 dirty.

    George

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Kiwiland
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    You'd have to be driving auto-cross style to get a turbo hot enough to need idle time when around town.
    Even from a 100km/h flat cruise, pulling to a stop will see your EGT's low enough to not need any idle down.

    If you get to the top of a mountain, don't shut it down straight away. Not just for your turbo but your cooling system. Good times at ski fields watching cars start to boil a minute or so after they've been shut down.

  6. #26
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    Nov 2007
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    so how should i run it in if i dont have any big hills nearby or a boat to tow around???

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Orange Grove WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by dultim8
    so how should i run it in if i dont have any big hills nearby or a boat to tow around???
    Don't wrap it up in cotton wool. Use the load pedal but don't thrash it.

    Brett....

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
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    Isnt this in the World Famous FAQ??

    I'd think it would be in the owners manual.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Hi Pedro

    I had a look in the FAQ located here. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...4-rrs-faq.html
    I could not find anything about running in a new vehicle.
    Would you please be able to point me in the right direction to find it?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fremantle WA or Erbil, Iraq (?!)
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    The issue on older turbos (and I'm most familiar with turbos on aircraft piston engines) is that the idle time was also to give time for the fast-spinning turbo to stop spinning before the bearing lubricant stopped flowing. It's not just to do with heat. Modern road vehicles seem to have other means of causing the turbo to spool down quickly.

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