When I need extra night vision, I get the wife to crank down the pax window and hang out with the Dolphin Torch.
Sod paying three and a half grand for spotlights.
I am quite keen on the Lightforce Striker 170s HIDs:
http://www.lightforce.com/hid/products/hid_170_striker
I think you can get them for about $450 a pair.
this post from Skuilnaam discussing Halogen vs HID made me a bit less keen on HIDs:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1720711
I didn't like that HIDs lose 20% of their output after a relatively short period of use - according to him. The post is part of a thread discussing the virtues of LED lightbar which is another option.
Not having a bullbar, I'd be interested to know if anyone has done a direct to bumper mounting of lights (non LR) - I know there is a thread on the D3uk site but that is for the D3 and I believe the Landrover driving light mounting brackets are different between the D3 and D4.
Tombie, good to see you back. Your lighting arrangement sounds intriguing - something you are working on?
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
When I need extra night vision, I get the wife to crank down the pax window and hang out with the Dolphin Torch.
Sod paying three and a half grand for spotlights.
 OldBushie
					
					
						OldBushie
					
					
                                        
					
					
						In addition to the lights, I'm currently running the D2 without the grille, and it's gone from running in traffic at around 98deg (or higher when stopped) to around 94 and on the highway would sit on 96.7 at constant 100-110 to 91 even when pushed out to 130.
I'm looking at what options I have for smaller lights or bar. The bar doesn't have the distance output I'd like. But has the profile. I could mount the lights on top of the bar but both don't want to look like a bogan & they sit in your eye-line and also I'm sure it's illegal.
I'll also be modifying the grille by cutting out most of the centre and replacing with some expanded metal mesh. Kind of Saudi style but a fraction of the price. Which also may leave the option of mounting some smaller lights in cups into the mesh itself.
Finally what about getting some hal;ogen based lights and later (or sooner) fitting a HID upgrade kit?
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberHELLA RALLYE 4000 METAL FF 4WD DRIVING LIGHTS W/ COVERS | eBay
Perhaps they're worth a bit more than you thought. ?
Deano
Pity they're not 4000's
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterJeepers! Hope they got a decimal point in the wrong spot!
didn't pay anything close to that for mine!
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Unless you have found a way to repeal the laws of physics, these are far and away the best long range driving lamps available. Remember your Year Twelve Science text books? The maximum output from a light source is achieved by mounting the source at the focal point of a parabolic reflector. The output from a light source increases as the diameter of the reflector is increased.
They are industrial lamps, not automotive and thus have full parabolic reflectors as does the Bosch SL5. They are 250mm and 220 mm diameter. I do not know of any automotive lamps that have full parabolic reflectors or are this diameter. They are normally truncated to limit the distance they protrude from the front of the car.
Check the Hella catalogue for the diagrams of reach and spread.
4000 pencil beam, one lane spread and <700 metres reach.
4000 spread beam, two lane spread at 200 metres and <500 metres reach.
1503 searchlamp, six lanes spread at 300 metres and almost 800 metres reach.
The ideal setup is to have two of them mounted slightly cross-eyed to give an around the corner effect near maximum range. I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.
URSUSMAJOR
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