Thread: Bullbar removal and servicing winches

If it's anything like the D2 bar then it's an inconvenience more than a difficult task. Unbolting the bar from the crush cans would most likely be the simplest case, although my crush cans needed a bit of gentle persuasion to go on so that might just be me
Two person job ideally, although if you have a small crane or suitable jack it could be done with one person.

Originally Posted by Ashes

Hoping to pick up a winch at the 4x4 show in Melb starting tomorrow.
Ideally it will need to be serviced every 12 months or so and run every couple of months to keep it in reasonable shape.

I have an Opposite Lock winch bar which is very similar to the ARB winch bar and from what I've read it is necessary to remove the bar to install the winch so it would also be the same to service it. I haven't had a real good look yet at how hard these are to remove.

Can anyone give a indication of how difficult the removal and refit of these bars are and how long it might take?

Take the bottom plate off and have a look first...

ARB told me the same for their bar...

They were wrong I can remove the guard and just drop the winch out the bottom...

Like Tombie. D3 with ARB bar. Took off a broken winch and out a new one on by removing the lower plate. It takes a little effort and a second pair of hands to hold the winch in possition while tightening or removing the 4 bolts which hold the winch to the front of my ARB bar.

Not a huge job. A little tricky getting the cables into the engine bay. I posted some photos of the location of the cables in the recovery section recently.

If you get cable on your new winch make sure you take the cable off to make it a bit lighter as you need to lift the winch up from under the car to get it in. Also check the toggle for in and out on the gears is going to be in the right spot before you bolt it in. (Yes is was )

The topic might be of interest to you http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...-location.html

Edit- Interest as you started it- whoops

Picked up a tigerz11 12000lb with rope at the 4x4 show on Friday. They had a pallete there of them but recon they would go pretty quick. Also giving away a highlift jack as well.

Managed to fit the winch today. You can definately fit it in the Opposite Lock winch bar without removing the bar....but...it would probably be quicker to remove the bar and fit it.

Routing the cables back to the battery was actually pretty easy. In my car at least there is a rubber panel near the top of the RH headlight where you can get the cable from in front of the radiator into the engine bay. The cables back to the battery are only just long enough.

Originally Posted by Ashes

Picked up a tigerz11 12000lb with rope at the 4x4 show on Friday. They had a pallete there of them but recon they would go pretty quick. Also giving away a highlift jack as well.

Managed to fit the winch today. You can definately fit it in the Opposite Lock winch bar without removing the bar....but...it would probably be quicker to remove the bar and fit it.

Routing the cables back to the battery was actually pretty easy. In my car at least there is a rubber panel near the top of the RH headlight where you can get the cable from in front of the radiator into the engine bay. The cables back to the battery are only just long enough.

Hi Ashes

Firstly, Good job mate

Just making it easier, do you mean the LH Headlight (Passengers)?

And just making sure... How did you attach the winch power cables? Eg.. To where in the vehicle for power..?? (Pos and Neg)?

You remembered to earth to the vehicle, Not the battery - right?!

cheers

Oops..LH side (passengers).

Power cables, both +ve and -ve attached directly to the cranking battery.

Let me know if there is a better way, thanks

Originally Posted by Ashes

Oops..LH side (passengers).

Power cables, both +ve and -ve attached directly to the cranking battery.

Let me know if there is a better way, thanks

Due to the nature of the charging system the -Ve is to go to the large Earth stud located behind the Fuse box (main fuse box).

Attaching it to the battery is a big no-no...

The Charging system has a 'device' in the -Ve lead so the ECU monitors current draw. By going to the battery you bypass this which will cause issues when using the winch.

cheers

Thx Tombie, I only ran the winch in and out a metre to check it was working and did this without the engine on. I'll relocate the cable when I next get a chance..hope it reaches.
Most of the advice I read suggested the -ve should go to the battery. Must have read the advice related to all those other simple cars out there