Thread: Replacement brake pads and discs independently?

I paid $970 (Included installation) for all four corners pads and rotors, didn't go with genuine and they are doing me well. I haven't tested their intensity yet in hard braking as they are 500kms new, but give me a week in peak hour traffic and I may.

I would hate to think of the cost for all that from a stealer. Got them done through a suspension joint.

Don't use Delphi pads, squealed like crazy on mine, B&S changed the fronts for OEMs but rears go a little piggy at times.

Like every vehicle I've owned the D4 will be getting slotted DBA rotors soon, combined with Bendix pads...

The improvement is noticeable...

And the DBA rotors last longer as the metal grade is better, meaning only the pads become the replacement for the next 3 sets....

For the last 30,000km every specialist who has looked at my car has said I need to do the brakes, including rotors as soon as possible yet the car continues on without fault and the low pad light has not as yet come on.

Yesterday while getting new tyres the installer made a note that brakes and rotors are needed ASAP so I thought that as I had not checked them for a while it might finally be time.

The car has now done 65,000km and on checking the rears there is about 1/8" left on the pads and the fronts are a little more so it is time to change the pads. The pads are Ferodo TWR so I assume original. I put the vernier calipers in the disks and showed 28.2mm on the front and 18.2mm on the rears. Limits are 27-30mm on the front and 17-20mm for the rears so are 60% worn. Current pad and rotor wear would indicate 70,000km out of a set of pads and about 100,000km out of the rotors.

My local brake specialist quoted $1400 to do the lot using DBA rotors so I will put a set of pads in now and leave the rotors to the 96,000km service but checking their thickness at interim services.

So it would seem these vehicles are not as hard on brakes as I was led to believe.

Cheers

Garry

When I last looked DBA rotors were more than LR OEMs.
Check the price of LR ones as well.

Originally Posted by garrycol

For the last 30,000km every specialist who has looked at my car has said I need to do the brakes, including rotors as soon as possible yet the car continues on without fault and the low pad light has not as yet come on.

Yesterday while getting new tyres the installer made a note that brakes and rotors are needed ASAP so I thought that as I had not checked them for a while it might finally be time.

The car has now done 65,000km and on checking the rears there is about 1/8" left on the pads and the fronts are a little more so it is time to change the pads. The pads are Ferodo TWR so I assume original. I put the vernier calipers in the disks and showed 28.2mm on the front and 18.2mm on the rears. Limits are 27-30mm on the front and 17-20mm for the rears so are 60% worn. Current pad and rotor wear would indicate 70,000km out of a set of pads and about 100,000km out of the rotors.

My local brake specialist quoted $1400 to do the lot using DBA rotors so I will put a set of pads in now and leave the rotors to the 96,000km service but checking their thickness at interim services.

So it would seem these vehicles are not as hard on brakes as I was led to believe.

Cheers

Garry

garry, you are in the minority, most people don't drive like you, i have seen plenty with metal to metal contact at 40k, brake warning lamps on at 35k, and 99% requiring discs as they actually taper from the inboard surface, thinning out toward the outer rim so that if you try new pads on the old discs, most times you get a shorter pad life and the pedal feels worse. also it is imperative to remove the rear discs and clean/adjust the park brake shoes at the same time, or an EPB module will be next on the shopping list.

they aren't exxy for the whole set, even over the counter at LR less than $900. try getting brakes from a bmw dealer for an x5 for that!

i have used plenty of aftermarket pads and discs, about 60% of genuine prices but just as good ime.

jc

If there was plenty left in your rotors but the pads were gone, wouldn't you just machine the taper out of the rotors?

Originally Posted by Stuart02

If there was plenty left in your rotors but the pads were gone, wouldn't you just machine the taper out of the rotors?

Not when the new rotors are so cheap, and you will find they will become so close to undersize, that they will warp easier/ quicker.

JC