Thread: How Do I Disconnect the Reversing Alarm?

With a trailer connected the alarm should be automatically be disabled.

It would seem you have a problem - have you genuine landrover wiring or a bodgy job?

Leds on the trailer - is the trailer symbol lighting up when you have your indicators on?

Garry

I'd like to disable then enable the rear sensors after a trailer is detached to get the sensors working again without having to stop and restart the engine. Actually I'd like smarter software but can't do anything about that. I suspect the wiring is fitted for the dash disable/enable switch that's installed when front sensors are fitted. The harness for the front sensors are all in a connector on their own, as are the rears, with other wires that also run from the front in a 3rd connector. One day I'll get to look for the switch connector behind where the switch would be fitted.

In the HSE there is a parking sensor switch, which enables you to turn off the front and rear sensors after they have been automatically started. So I don't know whether you have tried this after the sensors are started.

It is possible to turn the sensors off and leave the camera on.

I have done this when reversing to connect a caravan, which is before the wiring loom is connected so the auto disengage does not work.

I guess you could say its a bodgy job. The 7 pin plug now accomodates a live wire to power the electric brakes on my trailer, and the wiring from my brake controller.

I'm really not sure why it wont sense the trailer is attached, but I have the blue (electric brake) wire and black (reversing) I have disconnected to allow for the extra other wires.

Does anyone know what signal/circuit/resistance needs to be sensed to actually tell the D4 that the trailer is attached?

Check Garrycol's questions. The trailer is "sensed" via a low voltage signal sent down the indicator circuits. Is your trailer wiring part of the original LR trailer loom or have you piggy backed off the vehicle rear lights? Does the trailer have LED lights?

Originally Posted by Graeme

...One day I'll get to look for the switch connector behind where the switch would be fitted.

Today whilst the D4's centre console was apart I had a look. There is only 1 connector on the console and its fully populated, so worked my way to being able to pop the top off the blank where the switch goes. The switch is intact. The blank is a proper switch button but with 4 or 5 legs (now removed) to stop it from moving when pushed. My reversing sensors are not currently attached (no plastic bumper skin) so cannot test to see if the disable switch works or not but will post results when the bumper is again fitted. It could be that the switch is ignored if front sensors are not fitted.

Graeme, have you stumbled across something here? Does LR just mechanically lock out switches (presumably without the graphics on the surface) instead of fitting blanking plates? Time to start poking around.

Yes, its just a simple mechanical lockout. However I don't know if the real D4 switch button has a LED to indicate the sensors are disabled because the D3 has a LED in the switch, although that wouldn't bother me as I only want to turn them off then straight back on. I didn't think to look for a 2-pin connector but I had quite a look comparing with what the stability control disable switch had beneath its button, mostly being the visible pcb that had nothing directly to do with the switches themselves. The switches are operated by a single prong near the top centre of the button, with 2 rubber tubes providing the return spring function.

Faultmate doesn't provide any test functions for the parking distance ecu so I couldn't detect if the ecu recognised the switch.