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Thread: Query for the electricery experts

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Adelaide SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    When do you want me back???????
    p.s You have great ears!!
    2 words for you...

    Mood

    Lighting


    enough said


  2. #22
    Platypus Guest
    I already have the Fyrlyts. Got them new for $190 for the pair. (Silent auction, school fete. I don't think anyone else realised their true cost!). At $1300 I'll probably think more about fitting Opposite Lock 'bar and use that for so much more.

  3. #23
    Platypus Guest
    Just another thought. The Fyrlyts are 150w each globe which is a minimum of 13 Amps per light, optimally 30 Amps wiring capacity for the pair. The LR loom may not have enough 'head room' to allow the lights to work at their best ( I stand to be corrected if this ain't so!)
    Paul

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brick View Post
    Hi Pete,

    As requested. To quote SWMBO, its too bright, sets trees on the side of the road on fire, and has cars 2kms away flashing their lights. Perfect for the open roads in Australia.

    BTW, had the D4 in to get the trailer plug checked by the dealer as the fridge was not running on 12v when hooked up to the car. They wanted to undo the EBC wiring which was installed following your instructions. Told them in no uncertain terms not to touch it. Thank god they listened.



    Flamin heck that looks gooood!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Old Toongabbie, Sydney NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basil135 View Post

    Now, all that said, I am working on "plan B" which is a nice set of Fyrlyt's, and either make up my own harness, or get one off the shelf & modify it. The plan also makes better use of the factory switch location, to enable others to be put in there as well.
    I had a set of Fyrlyts installed last week onto an ECB bar. It cost me $200. The normal cost is $160 but I requested that they use had 6mm wiring instead of the usual 4mm and a 40 amp relay. This was suggested by Paul who co-developed the lights. There is a circuit diagram on the Fyrlyt web site. The install cost included a stick on switch which sits to the left of the rotary light switch. It is a push on/push of switch with red and green leds to indicate on or off. Hooked into the high beam circuit of course. The cable runs into the steering column gap. Looks very neat and the led is not noticeable at night as it's obscured by the steering wheel.

    I got my Fyrlyts through a forum member.

    Martin
    Last edited by letherm; 10th February 2014 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Typo

  6. #26
    Platypus Guest
    Letherm, do the 'High Beam Assist' ( or, more accurately, possum lights)
    still come one or have they been disconnected because that's quite a lot of Amperes draw on the system if both are on together?
    I would like to have a two-way switch so an either/or choice is available.
    Paul

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Old Toongabbie, Sydney NSW
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    Hi Paul

    Yes they do stay on. I presume that what you want to do is possible but maybe not by activating them via the high beam switch - may have to be a separate dedicated circuit/line but that would negate the ease of turning them off for oncoming traffic. Experts on the forum probably know.

    You can't see the high beam on the road though as the Fyrlyts overpower them completely. The switch I have does not have an option to disable the standard high beam. It was the same on my previous car too. Paul from Fyrlyt said that 4mm wire would do but 6mm is optimal. From what I read on his web site and his e-mails to me the aim is to get 13 volts to the lights. I am just parroting here - I'm not an electrician

    He is very happy to correspond or talk to people. I got the name of these lights from this forum - I'd never heard of them before.

    Martin

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