Gasman...at a rough guess you have a worn cv joint at the front.
Try raising the car and do some very slow full lock turns both ways listening for clicking. Be very gentle on the throttle as the cv is at an extreme angle.
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberHi all.
At the shopping centre I noticed a clicking noise from the front end.Only happens when moving slow as you manoeuvre.
Any thoughts?
1991 2 door Disco (current)
2012 Puma ute
2007 D3
1976 2 door RR
1977 2 door RR
1972 FORD XY 4X4
+ 70 other vehicles and trucks
Gasman...at a rough guess you have a worn cv joint at the front.
Try raising the car and do some very slow full lock turns both ways listening for clicking. Be very gentle on the throttle as the cv is at an extreme angle.
2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.
X2 CV joints would be my first port of call as well.
Steve
Lock Stops not lubed?
 ChatterBox
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
                                        
					
					
						If only on full lock..as above.
CVs are unusual to fail, look elsewhere first
Are cvs looked at during services?
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I had exact same thing on my FL2 at around 30k. In car parks slow turns, nearly full lock you could hear a click click noise as the car moved. All good when at speed greater than 10km . The tyres were original from when I purchased new in 2008 but were nearly due for replacement. Dealer said it was the brake pads rattling in the carriers but not a problem. Apparently it was common???? I felt that was BS and was starting to get a bit iffy about the car which had otherwise been outstanding. I traded it not long after on a new D4 hoping to get a better vehicle and avoid any potential problems ie. cv's etc.
Not sure if the brake pad explanation applies to the Disco's though.
BTW, the D4 has been much more capable and comfortable but I miss the reliability of the FR2. It never let me down. See my other posts for details.
Dean
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I replaced my cv,s at around 195 k because they were clicking, slow, full turn, its your cv,s or at least one of. They can click like that for a long time befor actually failing so I would not panic , just have them replaced next service. Mine cliked for about six months befor I got around to it.
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberIt turns out that the clicking noise is associated with the body moving on the chassis.
I had just completed a quick run to Qld and back via back roads and apparently gave the old girl too much and as a consequence, the body/chassis bolts have moved a little.
So just a quick tighten up I'm told and wallah!
1991 2 door Disco (current)
2012 Puma ute
2007 D3
1976 2 door RR
1977 2 door RR
1972 FORD XY 4X4
+ 70 other vehicles and trucks
That doesn't sound right.
CVs will click as you corner hard and accelerate. The cause is usually a broken boot which will allow dirt and moisture to enter the joint. Usually happens after 5+ years. This then effectively turns the joint into a rock grinder and allows the lithium grease to egress from the unit.
The clicking is from a dry joint combined with excessive clearance between the ball, the race and the spider - the ball moving from one side to the other quickly is the click noise. Sometimes you can cure the noise by pulling the joint apart and throroughly cleaning it, and then repacking it with grease and a new boot. I have done this before on Japanese vehicles.
I would triple check all of your driveshafts for a broken boot before proceeding further. The body coming off the chassis idea seems more than a little far fetched.
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