Thread: Is there a way to test you coolant alarm

I think you will find the coolant level will only drop over time if you hav a small leak. A catastrophic leak would cause a temp rise before taking coolant from the tank. Mine never showed when my water housing went.
Really there to indicate a need to check for leaks so you don't run out of coolant.
They definately work as with the faulty ones when the float sinks the light comes on.
If you really are paranoid and want to test suck the coolant out and see if the light comes on.

I cannot speak for the processes within a TDV6 if there is a catastrophic coolant loss but in my time I have cooked two engines with this happening.

In both cases a lower radiator hose failed big time while cruising along a freeway at about 110kph. The coolant went out under the cars with me being none the wiser. The temperature gauges quite happily sat on 'N' and it was not until the engine started to get a bit rattly and started to smell "hot" was I aware something was wrong - in these cases the temp gauge did not move as the sensor was no in the coolant. The same nearly happened in my 101 and I have since fitted a low coolant level/hi temp alarm.

My assumption with the TDV6 is that in the case of a total catastrophic coolant loss the level sensor will pick this up immediately even though the process described by Gordon may not kick in as the sensors may not detect a temp rise. Likewise if there is just a leak the level sensor may pick this up and if the leak is enough to cause the engine to get hot with coolant still in the system the process that Gordon describes also works.

When my car gets a bit older and the coolant pipes age I will consider putting in a system similar system to the one in the 101 but given the systems in the TDV6 it should not be needed.

Garry

A few years back, I ended up putting a new 350 CID V8 in my 1992 Buick Roadmaster rear wheel drive 4 door sedan.

A rear frost plug blew out, dumped all the engine coolant on the road behind me, (I saw it going out and thought it was grease smoke burning off from my new muffler system).

The low water level light, (sensor in the radiator), did not detect the water loss as the rad was air locked; the engine temp gauge did not register as there was no water at the sensor. The hint was steam coming up from the hood, and the knocking sound. This was in a matter of about 3 minutes.

For the 3, I have a ScanGauge II mounted on the steering column. I have it set to degrees F and it shows immediate temp change. Where the signal actually comes from, I do not know, (presume the same signal as the temp gauge gets without the smoothing effect), but the ScanGauge readings changes seem to make sense depending upon driving conditions.

I have not yet had a complete coolant loss, (actually any coolant loss), and do not want to really find out for certain. I am however at next service, (180,000 km), installing a complete new thermostat housing, LR part #LR005631, along with new fresh coolant for the 4.4L petrol V8.

I do not know if the ScanGauge is an answer but it has me fooled anyway - fat and happy so to speak.

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

Had to order a part today and was told about a rising number of cars doing engine damage due to the failure of the plastic housing that the top radiator hose plus a couple of other hoses connect to on the TDV6.

Hi , can you tell us what part it is you had to order? and what hoses.

We also operate in extremely hot ambient temp. here and we all tow haevy trailers.

Regards

Originally Posted by KOOS BEST

Hi , can you tell us what part it is you had to order? and what hoses.

We also operate in extremely hot ambient temp. here and we all tow haevy trailers.

Regards

The part in question is called the "Water Outlet Assembly"

I was actually ordering something totally unrelated to this issue, it was just that the mechanic told me of a problem that seemed to be happening with cars he was working on.

I dont have access to part numbers , but I can ring and ask for a part number if that helps.

Cheers Ean

It is what went on mine. It is in top of the engine in the 'V'. Made of plastic and the heat warps it causing it to leak. Easy fix and if I was outback touring i would take a spare.
A lot of modern cars are having issues with cooling system parts made of plastic.

Yep - a part that looks good to some spotty faced design engineer (who takes a train to work) doesn't quite cut it in the real world ...
Reminds me of a "chocolate teapot" - looks good but doesn't work too well....

"Water outlet assembly" might be an item I'll have add to my outback spares.
cheers

Originally Posted by CaverD3

It is what went on mine. It is in top of the engine in the 'V'. Made of plastic and the heat warps it causing it to leak. Easy fix and if I was outback touring i would take a spare.
A lot of modern cars are having issues with cooling system parts made of plastic.

I took 1 with me on our last trip in the spares kit, after reading of CaverD3 issue's, think they cost all of $40 and will change mine out at the 100,000 service. I bought it plus a new belt and will do them together, plus check the belt tensioner etc for peace of mind.

Cheers Ean