Don’t fear... a post of FB has yet another Toyota D4D destroying itself....
Happens far more frequently than any PAG TDV6 going pop...
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Don’t fear... a post of FB has yet another Toyota D4D destroying itself....
Happens far more frequently than any PAG TDV6 going pop...
But there are probably far more D4D engines around than any other smallish diesel engine,by a fair margin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
It’s often the known injector faults that cause them to pop.
Maybe, but the PSA V6 diesels are very common, used in many different cars. I reckon that if you added them all up you might be surprised.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
Right... and just remember that radiator outlets are at the bottom of them. Reason? Colder coolant is at the bottom. With all the fins clogged in the bottom 1/4 - 1/3, the coolant may not be getting cooled sufficiently. Also add in where the majority of the air flow into the radiator - most would be at the bottom (through the gaping big hole), rather than through the grill. (Which is why the intercooler is down there).Quote:
Originally Posted by johntins
I’m going to say that I cannot believe the water cooling system is the cause or even a contributing factor. Firstly none of the reported failures I’ve read have reported the car flagging a high temp situation. They have a sophisticated ECU that’s capable of monitoring water temp (and oil temp) and taking action both at the engine and flagging it on the dash. I also find it very unlikely they have had a temperature sensor failure that meant it didn’t warn them of overheating in one way or another, however I guess that’s a possibility.
Sadly the reasons for these failures will be known within JLR. It’s just a shame they don’t divulge.
It is hard to argue with your points, but it must be noted that there is little to no reporting of issues of this nature on the Ford forums, on what is essentially the same engine. There must be something that causes this issue in LRs. I'm not for a moment saying that cooling is it. The page I linked to re Jag and DPF might have merit.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Yep. Can’t disagree. And for both 2.7L and 3.0L as well. It could be a packaging issue of the engine in this vehicle that under some circumstances is problematic. Think back to the VL Commodore and its Nissan engine. If I remember right it had an issue where the engine was higher than the radiator and was difficult to purge the cooling system effectively leading to issues.
You’re right, I haven’t a clue. I wish LR would release potential causes so is as consumers could, if possible, take measures to reduce or mitigate.
Isn't the entire bottom 400mm of the radiator in the D4 D3 covered by the intercooler anyway? Which is why I figured the bull bars steel plating makes zero difference. Could affect air intake temps only.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesy63
Mud clogging the whole area up obviously still would make a difference, but if there's zero air flow there due to a intercooler hard up against it I can't see the bullbar making any at all.
Air flows through the intercooler and then through the radiator (at a higher temp) - unless they're clogged with mud, grasshoppers, leaves, a combination, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russrobe
I can't recall the intercooler being anywhere near 400mm tall though.
Agree on the bullbar making much difference (or factory bumper bar for that matter).
So that makes two different LR indies making the same comments about overheating. That would account for the older ones, but not all. For those, I expect it is a combination of "Friday afternoon build" syndrome (forgetting to torque nuts correctly), or lack of maintenance (no or extended oil change,etc.)
To me this whole possible overheating thing is a furfy. There are enough systems in the car to alert the driver of a heating issue. Also how does an overheating relate to a bearing spinning where oil - even if it is too hot - does not provide adequate lubrication. A whole bunch of systems would cut in to protect and advise the driver of a potential issue.
For sure if an engine was overheated and a piston seized causing the crank to break but there is absolutely no evidence of over heating in this form - in fact one of the common scenarios is that the engine was running fine and without any warning whatsover the engine stopped with the dash lighting up - the dash lighting up after the failure not before.
