Granted, it's from a different car, a D1, but the principle is the same:
IMG_02361.JPG
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Thanks - I fully understand that , but every time I have seen it done , or , done crankshaft shells the tangs are on opposite sides and the cap when placed in position has a flat surface which buts up against each tang and locates them into position, it seems I assumed incorrectly that this served 2 purposes 1 to locate the shells and 2 to stop them being able to spin as they are sitting against the opposing flat surface, and not blocking off the oil gallery .
Cheers Ean
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Here's a site that may be of interest:
I have a Jaguar S type diesel 2.7 . The engne seized 6 weeks
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I can't help but wonder if this is where the problem lies . I know oil has come a long way , but unless we do a major trip , our D3 would struggle to do 4000ks a year. Personally I think even running the same oil for a year can't be good on a engine that has EGR , but plenty say synthetic oil can cope.
Its just the way my brain works , 5 ltrs of oil trying to run for 24,000ks in a environment that pumps a % ( even tho small ) of pollutants back into itself. Personally I am happy to put new oil and filter every 6 months or 10,000ks even if people tell me I am wasting $$.
Cheers Ean
The other thing to take into account is that the failures are not in the crankshaft main bearings, as I understand it, it is a conrod big end bearing about 1/3 from the front (not sure which piston) that grabs the bearing and spins it etc but that is not normally detectable from the drivers seat - this fatiques the crankshaft journal at the big end and the crankshaft breaks (not sure if this is instaneous or takes time). Seems to happen like this in most engines that have actually been checked - if all engines were checked before being scrapped an different result might show up.
So the $64,000 question is what makes the engines fail at this point - why is this the weak point? And why some engines and not others - if it was a design issue then all engines would be failing which they are not (only a small number) - this leads me to the bad maintenance theory or the bearing caps not being tight on some engines.
I have reduced my oil changes from 12,000km to 10,000km and always use the right fully synthetic oil and in view of some reported loose bearing caps considering whether to get the sump dropped and the torque on the bearing caps checked - not undone - just torqued to the correct amount.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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