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Sorry to hear this but it is spooky when it happens see the post below,
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...y-i-think.html
I was on the road with a van so had very few options, in Brisbane had a new one installed for $750 all up. One days notice thought that was acceptable in the situation.
DD
Second battery was charged and connected to camper house batteries (210 AH), fridge and UHF (both off second battery) where running when I left the car.
When I returned main battery was at 2V, second at 7V (fridge and UHF both not working) and camper batteries at 12.5V.
I suspect the 50A re-settable circuit breaker protected the camper batteries. For some reason I don't have a circuit breaker between the main and second battery. I will add one ASAP.
Isolator is a Traxide and I have spoken to Tim, he thinks it may be faulty. I will do some testing once I fix the alternator.
It has been another learning experience. I've learnt a lot more about the car. Now I have to decide what I will upgrade to...
Had the same thing happen - battery light came on for me though. From the time it came on the car drove about 20km before Christmas tree lights, no power, no gear change, I pulled up and put it in park and then as mentioned, couldn't even get it out of park... Didn't know the trick of pulling the surround off (I suspect the RRS is a bit different as the surround doesn't look like it just pulls off.
Actually replacing the alternator is about a 1 - 1.5hr job if you know what you're doing.
Have a look at the link below Jamo explains the R&R of the alternator quite well as well as providing some pics.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/69060-...ement.html
Lou...
Hi - good or great price on your new one. :D is it new?
I had mine replaced
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ms-whoops.html
Looked about 1/2 a days work to replace the alternator. The refit/repair option Graeme mentioned and video on my post might be worth looking at. The Alternator is a solid bit of kit. I wondered how much a Auto Electrician would charge to fix it for me after Graemes advice and would look at that if mine failed again.
Replacement completed, it took about 2 hours. Thanks to everyone that posted links, they were very helpful.
Alternator was brand new from Karcraft at Silverwater, I have found them to be very good for parts.
My mechanic quoted me 3-4 hours and told me you had to come from underneath, removing the fan and accessing it from the front was a much better option, I had to make a tool to hold it which took about half an hour of the 2 hours.
As I had previously removed the battery, I spent extra time cleaning the connectors to the transfer case ECU which were corroded and I suspect causing my various intermittent transmission, parkbrake, HDC and other errors. I'll post up some pics in the relevant thread.
My dual battery controller appears to be faulty as my second battery can drive an Engel fridge back through it to where it connects to the main battery.
Old alternator terminal to body resistance.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/04/389.jpg
New alternator terminal to body resistance.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/04/390.jpg
New alternator in situ.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/04/391.jpg
New alternator rear view.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/04/392.jpg
Old alternator rear view.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/04/393.jpg
They are slightly different, however the mounts and specifications are the same. It looks like the original has a heatsink. I may dismantle it and take a look to see what failed.
Sorry I didn't see this post earlier - mine died a few months ago with the same symptoms. Fitting was a bit fiddly, the only real problem was making a tool to undo the fan. Out of interest how did you stop the pulley rotating so you could unscrew the fan?
Regards,
Tote
What was the tool that you had to make?
In order to unscrew the fan hub from the pulley shaft you need to stop the water pump pulley rotating. There is a special tool available for the task but I just welded some flat at a 45 degree angle and drilled two holes that the screws on the hub could be screwed to. The piece of flat then allowed me to hold the hub while I unscrewed the fan.
Here's a link to another method :DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How to remove Viscous Coupling on Cooling Fan D3 / LR3
Regards,
Tote
Thanks - similar to the D2 Td5 fan removal tool that I made.