Thread: Sticky primary turbo actuator - external fix?

I'm searching for it Graeme -
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Turbo Actuator Rod and linkage access TDV6 D3

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Turbo Actuator Rod and linkage access TDV6 D3

So it can be done - with pain.

Thanks Rich. Assuming the 3.0's primary turbo is the same setup as the 2.7, I'll see how I go from the top to see if I can get some lubricant into the ball joints.

Can anyone point me to a diagram of the air inlet tract of the 3.0 engines? I used to have one but not for some time now.

It seems that the actuator is not stuck fast as the link rod seems to have free movement and indeed moves without apparent roughness as engine revs increase then decrease. The combination of the rough running on light acceleration just prior to the reduced performance msg is issued, the loud high pitch whine eminating from the left side of the motor on run-down after reduced performance has been triggered and sometimes a lesser whine even if reduced performance hasn't been triggered and oil being spat back into the airbox from the secondary turbo then sucked into the primary MAF, I'm wondering if a valve isolating the secondary turbo is not closing and therefore causing all the strife. So far I haven't been able to spot the location of the isolating valve(s), hence the request for a diagram.

TAI

All better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.

The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover.

Edit: A post on Disco3.co.uk referred to the same 4 fault codes that caused the LR techo to immediately identify this valve as the cause.

Good stuff Graeme if thats all it was.
Some investigation was definitely worth it.

The shaft was reluctant to move freely and fully close the valve whilst I was holding the housing after having removed it from the vehicle. The dirt was our local granite soil which is quite gritty, hence the ability to jam the plate. Another poster referred to a revised linkage kit that takes 2.5 hrs to fit which I understood to refer to the primary turbo's actuator but a dust seal over the end of this shaft would do wonders so maybe the kit is instead for this valve's actuator. Also I could not see how the primary turbo's actuator could possibly be replaced in 2.5 hrs.

During the afternoon the fault occurred every time I took off down the driveway. The engine ran smoothly and faultless in tonight's test after the actuator shaft sprang to it home position after being touched. I avoided heavy throttle to prevent use of the secondary turbo which would then cause the valve to be re-opened after which it may have jammed again. I still have to tighten the hose clamps and bolts after which I'll take it for a run to include use of the secondary turbo and its isolation valve as final proof that its fixed. Too late for tomorrow's planned trip though as my wife doesn't trust the vehicle to keep going until demonstrated on a shorter run. I was looking forward to some different scenery too.

Edit: I wasn't looking forward to being left without a vehicle whilst it was trucked to Melbourne to be fixed.

Pics of the isolation valve. There are substantial barbs on the 3 hose spouts so the clamps have to be loosened quite a lot.





The old part-throttle manual up-shift at 2500 rpm problem of poor torque in the next gear has now gone, with power regained very quickly - probably less than 1 second after the gear change. It seems that the valve has been sticking to some degree for quite some time.

My Disco 4 3L TT also hit Reduced Performance mode recently with fault P22D2-77 logged, which translates to "turbo actuator stuck open". For me it was the secondary turbo on the right hand side and only noticeable under heavy load or acceleration.

A couple of mechanics looked at it and quoted on replacing the actuator rod assembly with a service kit or the entire turbo at costs ranging from $1k to $4k.

Ended up fixing with WD40 and a screwdriver without removing anything.

Well worth taking a look in the engine bay after you look at the computer screen.