Thread: D4 front parking sensor photos

Be very careful how you run the wiring mine was not done properly and I need to remove the bar to reroute the wiring. All sensors must be mounted with the connectors pointing down. Ensure the sensor also sits as far out of the bar as possible I have been advised if they are recessed to much the bar will intefere with their operation. Mine have not worked since I had the bar installed the most annoying part being I have also lost the rears with the bar install. By doing this yourself I am sure you will keep at it until it is right. Good luck. If anyone has a spare front sensor loom please let me know.

ARB bar finally fitted with Sensors, forward facing cameras and LED park and indicators, adjusted and locked in with the Warn 9500 XP winch.

I am a bit disappointed at the ARB quality of instructions and fitment of the cheap lights that are not water proof. In fact ARB remove the seals from the parking and indicator lights so that water can at least drain out. The other problem was the fairlead bolts provided in a special yellow bag, these imperial 3/8 bolts were 10mm to short, it appears ARB may have added thicker winch support material when forward mounted.

I also found that a lot of washers are to small, especially when the hole is a long 8mm slot to allow for adjustment. I had to use better quality larger rated washers.

I also fitted copper grease on all nuts/bolts and used there torque guide.

All other bolts to hold all accessories such as cameras, sensors, lights etc I used Loctite to ensure they would not become loose with heavy rutted dirt tracks.

Some observations when fitting the parking sensors.

You only need to extend one wire, the rest can be extended by breaking open the sensor, driving light and camera cable loom.

I found that mounting the cameras to be the most difficult to allow for easy removal, secure fixing and provide some sort of mounting to protect the lens and body from vibration.

Both cameras are installed in a rubber grommet, the grommet is positioned in a 22mm hole that was cut using a p&n step drill. I tried a number of alternative methods, mainly hole saw, but the hole saw did more damage than good. A proper lubricated step drill in 3 trial holes in mild steel showed a good circular controlled hole.

Once the grommets are inserted, it provided a solid support for the camera lens body. I also used PCB stand-offs and a small additional 3mm hole in the bar that holds a 20mm stainless steel bolt with nut and washer to act as a securing post for the PCB stand-off. The combination of PCB standoff securing the camera body and the tight fit of the camera lens body, provided a secure rubber type vibration decoupled mount.

The bar was positioned to ensure the grill could be removed, therefore access to replacing lamps would be made that bit easier.

Very happy with the matched coloured finish.

Originally Posted by VK3GJM

The other problem was the fairlead bolts provided in a special yellow bag, these imperial 3/8 bolts were 10mm to short, it appears ARB may have added thicker winch support material when forward mounted.

Gerald - I think you'll find that was because the bolts provided were for a roller fairlead... the aluminium hawse are thicker. I had to buy longer bolts when I changed over recently.

Looks good.

Cheers,
Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks. Why change to a no-roller/fixed hawse?

Regards

Gerald