Thread: Pulse Buster/ led trailer module

Andrew, I understood the the unit was to be mounted in the vehicle with a switch to enable or disable it depending on what trailer you had hooked up (LED/Incandescent lights) .

I use stainless cable type ties to the winch post on the boat trailer but haven't had to endure rough roads for any length of time.

Have you thought about large stainless hose clamps, they are available in large sizes or you can unwind them all the way and join 2 or more together to go around the drawbar.

Originally Posted by SBD4

Andrew, I understood the the unit was to be mounted in the vehicle with a switch to enable or disable it depending on what trailer you had hooked up (LED/Incandescent lights) .

I may have led astray using the term pulse buster as I have never actually seen that unit. The one I have is the one supplied by pawky66 on eBay

LED Trailer Module Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport Landrover Towing LR3 | eBay

Which is designed to accept the trailer plug and then bridge to the vehicle plug.

Originally Posted by rufusking

I use stainless cable type ties to the winch post on the boat trailer but haven't had to endure rough roads for any length of time.

Have you thought about large stainless hose clamps, they are available in large sizes or you can unwind them all the way and join 2 or more together to go around the drawbar.

The large stainless hose clamps may be a good idea, but the mounting holes on the unit are the wrong way round to use for this to mint flush and horizontally on the bar so would have to just rely on pure pressure on the lug plates which based on my recent experience would worry me a little.

I guess I can just drill holes in the drawbar and bolt it in, but I am always wary of drilling holes in load bearing beams.

Originally Posted by AnD3rew

I guess I can just drill holes in the drawbar and bolt it in, but I am always wary of drilling holes in load bearing beams.

You could attach a couple of large U bolts to the A frame, threaded rods up, fab a small plate to attach to it and drill through that.

Cheers,

Gordon

Originally Posted by AnD3rew

The large stainless hose clamps may be a good idea, but the mounting holes on the unit are the wrong way round to use for this to mint flush and horizontally on the bar so would have to just rely on pure pressure on the lug plates which based on my recent experience would worry me a little.

I was thinking of strapping around the body of the unit. It looks as the whole unit is in some sort of a die cast box.

As for drilling, the main load for the draw bar is in the verticle plane (for a single axle anyway) the top and bottom elements take the stress with the sides just keeping them apart so I'd have little concern in drilling a couple of small holes in the sides plus stops anyone standing on the Pulse Buster.

I have one from Linear Electronic Design http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/ & it is mounted inside the area where the tow hitch is, there is a switch I can use to turn it on/off when needed. Far better idea that the draw bar as I was most worried that someone would steal if for the hell of it. Didn't even think of wear on corrugated roads.

Cheers

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Hi Andrew, this is bit of shutting the gate after the horse has bolted but could be useful for other members. I have the problem of needing to tow a few different trailers so I went for a unit made by linearelectronicsdesign.com. This unit is very sturdy and has 4 holes on the backing plate. ( I had to drill out the holes a little to get bolts long enough) I just use bolts and aluminium strap to fix it to the van/trailer. I think the designer is/was on the forum as he gave me a discount on the unit. They are a little dearer ($265) than yours, but I think more user friendly.
Cheers
John