Reply With QuoteThis sounds like the known problem of a weak housing that sometimes breaks after a new belt is fitted. IIRC the recommendation is at the same time to replace the housing with the redesigned stronger one fitted to later models.
Master
I have a 2005 D3.
The belts were due to be changed 12 months ago, but my LR "service advisor" said that it wasn't necessary (possibly because I had only covered 75k).
However, I felt uncomfortable as I want to do more than highway miles (and I don''t think that he would give me a written guarantee) I decided to get the belts changed this week.
When I picked the D3 up, all seemed fine.
Yesterday (Saturday) I took the D3 out on its first (suburban) drive.
I noticed that the "low coolant" light would come on intermittently.
As it was intermittent, I decided to continue.
When I tried to pull into a carpark,the power steering was gone. I managed to park the D3 only to see coolant spewing out below.
When the road service (NRMA) arrived,he homed in on a failed water pump. He showed me that the water pump was detached from the block.
It will be interesting to see how the dealer responds to this.
Swaggie
This sounds like the known problem of a weak housing that sometimes breaks after a new belt is fitted. IIRC the recommendation is at the same time to replace the housing with the redesigned stronger one fitted to later models.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Master
When was the housing redesigned? Or are there external differences that can point to which housing type is fitted?
Graeme, I thought that issue was the oil pump rather than the water pump? The ones I've heard of for the water pump have been the bolts shearing rather than the pump housing itself.Originally Posted by Graeme
Swaggie
I recall reading "oil" pump on someone's post but expect that to be in the sump.
As for what actully breaks I'm unsure but there are posts here somewhere that describe the strengthened housing/cover.
Edit: It was only of passing interest to me, not having a pre-2008 2.7.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Definitely a different issue Graeme.
This recent thread on Disco3 is probably the exact same scenario as the OP DISCO3.CO.UK
The oil pump housing sits behind the timing cover, and it's the belt tensioner on that that has been reported snapping off, leading to 4 redesigns so far.
Master
Hi Sheerluck,
Thanks for the link, I'd forgotten about that thread.
Best Wishes,
Peter
Master
Hi Graeme,
Thanks for your post. However, as Sheerluck says, the problem you are recalling is for the oil pump housing (and seems to afflict MY07 & some 08 D3s).
Best Wishes,
Peter
Wizard
I dont think the water pump had to be touched for a timing belt change other than the removal of the front serpantine belt drive pully , sounds a bit suss to me . Would sugest that they have some explaining to do . I know i would beoff .
Master
SupporterLearner, I assume you are taking about the timing belts.
As yours is a 2005 model then the oil pump housing should have been changed too. The new modified housing has extra reinforcing where the belt tension bolt screws in. I have just recently had my timing belts done, and my parts supplier would not sell me the timing belts without the oil pump housing.
When we compared old with new, you can see the difference.
IvanR
ps When changing the oil pump housing, then the starter motor has to be removed and a timing pin placed in the flywheel.
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