Just completed mine yesterday.Daunting task at first,as you say,slow and steady and all goes well.
Andrew
I'd like to add my positive experience with a Traxide install. I am not confident with auto electrics and car trim panels and even considered getting someone else to install. However, Tim was right and I am very happy to have successfully installed it myself.
The instructions are detailed and excellent. Photo shows me closely reading them for the rear Andersen plug!
Slow and steady is the key for a beginner. I didn't break any trim clips or plugs but a flexible magnet tool saved the day for the door sill metal clips.
Similar to others, I added an extra lead for the fridge c/w Andersen plug. The lead is kept in the LHS storage compartment when not in use. Just spliced in to the 12v socket cable supplied with the kit.
Now I'm looking forward to using it on trips.
Cheers,
Scott
Just completed mine yesterday.Daunting task at first,as you say,slow and steady and all goes well.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Ours went in a treat and after a quick condition of the yellow top all is working perfectly. Merit plug paired with cigarette lighter outlet now. We installed two Anderson plugs one replaces the white round plug and only operates from the starting battery and the other is part of the Traxide system. When hooked up to the Ulti it was very pleasing to see the BMS30 telling me there was 14.7 volts coming in from the car so an excellent outcome all round
Rob
Rob,
Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean by "quick condition" of the yellowtop? Also, what do you use the replacement Andersen for? (the white plug one on starter battery)
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Almost every battery sold has been sitting on the shelf discharging for a while. So we condition our batteries using a RedArc smart charger when a new one goes in to any of our 4WD's and at least every three months depending on the duty cycle of each vehicle.
We replaced the white round plug with a second anderson plug for the simple reason I can charge the starting battery or second battery directly from our amorphous solar panels
I hope that explains it in more detail
Regards
Rob
Perfect thanks Rob. Looking in to getting the charger now. That's a good idea for starter battery charging but I thought the starter would be getting charged anyway via the SC80 from the yellowtop. This is based off my reading of Traxide instructions, which I could have misunderstood.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Hi Scott and as long as the common voltage of the batteries has not dropped to 12.0v, depending on what kit you have, you can charger both batteries via the Anderson plug at the rear of your D3 or D4.
You can also charge both batteries via the White trailer plug at the rear.
For all late model D4 owners, Rob's suggestion of getting into a habit of giving your cranking battery a conditional charge, but not every 3 months, once a month.
There are some strange happenings with the way the alternators work in late model D4s and it is causing quite a few problems in the UK and I have had quite a few reports of similar problems here.
Sorry if this is the wrong thread. Newbie.
I have a dt90-l322 installed about 6 months ago, all seems ok.
Left the car for a month at airport while overseas.
Came back and both batteries flat as a fluke. So it seemed that the cranking battery lost power, to be expected maybe, but it dragged the 2 battery done as well.
Maybe I need a manual switch to really disconnect 2nd battery in instances like this where it is the reverse of what is the norm, ie 2nd battery under load and dropping and traxide disconnecting cranking battery.
Any thoughts please
That is on my12 L322 tdv8
Cheers
Ron
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