Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Battery Advice

  1. #1
    firefoxGC Guest

    Battery Advice

    Hi everyone,
    Ok trying to get the gurus out there to give some advice. I've had a lot of the common air/hdc/terrain errors of late that just appear for no reason. Driving me insane. There is the typical no rhyme or reason to when or how.

    The car has been in at the dealers for weeks going over, and checking sensor codes and physically inspecting everything. No codes etc..

    Anyhow... I went for about a 6 hour drive yesterday.
    I have 2 batteries and the traxide dual battery system o board.
    I noticed before I left yesterday battery was 12.2. Considering I do at least an hour or 2 driving each day was very surprised. So I did a test.

    Monitored the charging yesterday whilst driving sat between 13.9 and 14.2v whilst car running all day. Got back and immediately checked voltage.
    12.98 on both banks. I disconnected and shutdown everything!
    After about 2 hours my optima (secondary) was still sitting at 12.9 however the main had dropped to 12.7. I though this was probably great.

    I've got up this morning and the main is now 12.27? That's a lot of loss in the battery for overnight, with what I believe was a full battery?
    There was definitely nothing running inside and the secondary was disconnected, car was locked etc.

    The cranking battery was only replaced 9 months ago. I get the feeling this battery is dying?

    Thoughts?
    Cheers
    Justin

  2. #2
    firefoxGC Guest

    Update

    So quick update.
    Opened up the back of the car, and side door so lights came on.
    Figured would go and check voltage. Now 12.09v
    What the?
    Even if I turn the lights off interior only

    Sounds like this battery is dead?

  3. #3
    NavyDiver's Avatar
    NavyDiver is offline Very Very Lucky! Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    10,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Would be under warranty if that new? Is it possible your leaking some where like a winch direct wired to your battery?

    IMO voltage fluctuations could cause the systems errors given a blown brake light can cause similar issues.

    If your second battery is a deep cycle and main battery a normal battery I would also wonder if the differences are just not comparing apples to apples.

  4. #4
    firefoxGC Guest
    hi Weakestlink,
    Yes my secondary is a yellow top AGM. 55ah.
    However i had nothing running last night. The AGM stayed full. Now i 100% agree you can't compare..

    However with everything turned off.
    the crank battery started at 100% (12.7v) after it settled
    In the morning it was 12.2 (50-60%)
    after opening a single door it dropped to 12.09V (effectively 40-50%)

    Where did my 50% of my main cranking battery go overnight?

    Thats what has me stumped. I cannot believe the vehicle locked overnight would draw 50ah (or 50% of that battery).

    There was absolutely no load on the system at all?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There is load on the battery even when locked, eg the bcu and the suspension ecu. However the voltage drop suggests very little depth of charge with the likely cause being a dying battery. If the battery is disconnected overnight it may show full voltage in the morning but that doesn't prove its ability to charge properly.

    My D4 had a 6 hour run to the dealers for its final warranty service after having to be jump-started that morning, only to be told that the battery was a bit down and so needed to be put on a charger for a couple of hours. It wasn't long before I had to replace the battery myself because it was too flat to start the engine after sitting unused for 2 days.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi firefox and do you have a battery charger, if so and if you can leave your Disco for a day, try taking the negative terminal off the cranking battery and connecting the battery charger direct to the cranking battery.

    This is normally a No-No, connecting to the negative terminal of the cranking battery but leave your bonnet up for a while before you hook-up the charger and you should be safe.

    Leave the charger on over night and then remove the charger and just leave the battery as is and see if it looses charge by tomorrow evening, if you can leave it over night again, even better.

    If the battery voltage has dropped again, then the battery is the problem.

    If the battery seems to be holding it’s voltage, reconnect up the negative lead again and measure the voltage on the battery terminals and see if the battery voltage drops quickly over the next hour or so.

    As Graeme posted, measuring the terminal voltage is not always a good indicator of the true state of your batteries charge level.

    If the battery seems to be holding it’s charge once the neg terminal is back in place, it would be more than likely a problem with something in the disco drawing power when it should not be.

    Now this next suggestion is an extreme one but do you have a Smart Power meter fitted to your house. I have already had one customer who had problems caused by these meters.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    70
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi
    I recently had my battery replaced by the dealer and while under warranty (just!) was still keen to know if it was due to the electronic disco wizardry draining the battery.

    I haven't done it yet but you can measure battery drain with a multimeter to see what current (amps) is being drawn from the cranking battery while engine is off and car has 'shut down'. I'd google to check but my understanding is that you remove the positive from the cranking battery and place a multimeter set to mA in series between the positive cable and positive battery terminal.

    I'm sure people on hear have done this and can possibly comment on what a concerning reading would be.

    Good luck!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    743
    Total Downloaded
    0

    about a half amp or less

    I seem to recall the normal all shut down amp draw is less than a half amp.

    It is hard to measure as one has to have the hood up and that means the hook latch's are unlatched which keeps the alarm awake.

    With a screwdriver shaft, I forced the hook latch's closed with the hood open.

    I discovered that my overhead DVD player with the TV screen was not shutting down - screen continued to glow hours with the lid shut and hours later.

    I put a switch in the DVD circuit and that solved the battery drain concern.

    I also understand that a defective rear hatch switch can also lead to excessive draw.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    117
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you do replace the battery and still get those errors then try the brake switch, it also throws up those codes.

    I keep a spare in the car only cost around $20 delivered from the UK.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!