Thread: Timing belt + Oil pump 2007 RRS

I have been reading the same things on the UK site, and think it has happened to someone who posted on this site a while back.

I was told the belt change was 160,000kms so I have a bit to go BUT it comes down to the simple equasion which is

Peace of mind Vs $$$$

You have the engine apart, so for the cost of the housing and the extra couple of hours labour, would that cost make you sleep easier at night...

Me I will do the housing as well when mines due.

My 2c worth

Cheers Ean

Davis Performance Landies will not do a timing belt change without also doing the oil pump.
I understand that they did one and the pump sheared which cost them a LOT.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Davis Performance Landies will not do a timing belt change without also doing the oil pump.
I understand that they did one and the pump sheared which cost them a LOT.
Regards Philip A

I am also thinking of doing the same. oil pump housing with timing belt change, it is not possible to test/ inspect the housing.

jc

Originally Posted by justinc

I am also thinking of doing the same. oil pump housing with timing belt change, it is not possible to test/ inspect the housing.

jc

Thanks Justinc , I was hoping that you would show up here , seems to be the safest way to proceed for peace of mind , as i gues there is no difinitive answer to this but to fit the new design pump for 2007 /8 TD6 disco,s and RRS . Al

Will be quoting one up in the next week or so , I will let you know what it comes to.

JC

Have recently replaced my timing belts and yes we did replace the oil pump casing as well. In fact my parts supplier would not sell me the timing belt kit without the oil pump casing. I think the cost was less than $300 for the part so its a no contest given that a NEW ENGINE is around $10,000.

Ivan

I'll be doing something about the 3.0's crankshaft seal in the oil pump housing when my 3.0's timing belt needs replacing. I hope not to replace the housing but will do so if that's the only way to guarantee that the seal doesn't move.

I've done this job myself, you just need the locking tools for the flywheel and cams, and it would help to have a breaker that is at least 4'. Don't even bother with a rattle gun unless you have one that'll do 800nm+ and a massive compressor.

Removing the starter is a little tricky but nothing too difficult. You absolutely must lock the flywheel/flex plate before attempting this as the crank pulley is FLOATING and IS NOT KEYED TO THE CRANKSHAFT. Very important too to only do the tensioner bolt up to 24nm as the thing is prone to shearing.

The pump + a new front bolt + a new front main seal was about $95 all up. I bought the pump from LR Series in UK, part no. LR013487.

Any questions just PM me.