D3 - engine jammed on a highway

I am curious , if the engine seized whilst driving at speed, what in the drive train allows the car to continue momentum ?

Does the torque converter automatically release ?

My question is based on the O.P not commenting about any loud bang or unusual noises to indicate a major failure.

My simple brain would have thought that if the engine seized whilst doing even 2000 rpm, the drive train would basically stop dead, causing all sorts of major issues that would make you well aware of major problems regardless of how loud you were pumping the tunes out the speakers.

Happy to be schooled in what allows the car to keep rolling without any major alert.

I refer to they couldn't bar the engine over with a socket and breaker bar.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

I am curious , if the engine seized whilst driving at speed, what in the drive train allows the car to continue momentum ?

Does the torque converter automatically release ?

My question is based on the O.P not commenting about any loud bang or unusual noises to indicate a major failure.

My simple brain would have thought that if the engine seized whilst doing even 2000 rpm, the drive train would basically stop dead, causing all sorts of major issues that would make you well aware of major problems regardless of how loud you were pumping the tunes out the speakers.

Happy to be schooled in what allows the car to keep rolling without any major alert.

I refer to they couldn't bar the engine over with a socket and breaker bar.

Cheers Ean

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It depends what failed...

A friend had a rear diff fail at speed, the wheels locked and the vehicle skidded to a halt.
Whereas when my chainsaw seized it was running fine up till the point the engine bogged down and the piston melted into the bore.

You would expect a snapped crank to make some noise... however if it is a clean break and the rear section can keep turning while you slow down...??? The efi system would probably have shut off fuel straight away, as engine speed is usually read at the front.

I'm not interested in getting into a flame debate with TerryO's and not sure how an interest in the issues is inextricably linked to angst. I gave my commiserations to Techno and moved on to possible issues. Obviously Techno is going to get an engine. But if Techno intends to make any point for compensation etc then he also needs some knowledge of issues. I guess Techno could speak for himself on this issue, but I think he has enough on his plate.

I accept there is some merit in TerryO's complaint as it is hard to do searches through threads that get sidetracked like this - so this is my last word on definitions of'angst' and 'knowledge' and I will leave it to TerryO as to what he wants to add.

Minor bit of information, read a thread where the viscous fan fails allowing the engine to rev momentarily, giving the impression to the driver of momentary acceleration before whatever disaster is about to hit.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

It depends what failed...

A friend had a rear diff fail at speed, the wheels locked and the vehicle skidded to a halt.
Whereas when my chainsaw seized it was running fine up till the point the engine bogged down and the piston melted into the bore.

You would expect a snapped crank to make some noise... however if it is a clean break and the rear section can keep turning while you slow down...??? The efi system would probably have shut off fuel straight away, as engine speed is usually read at the front.

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I had a crank on a V12 snap in half on 1 of our trawlers and that engine ran for 36 hours at low revs to get the boat to port, and the only give away was the crank pully every now and then would move forward then pop back. The engine was still able to be barred over and even when we pulled 1 of the heads ( had 12 heads ) the back cylenders still went up and down, when we stripped it the crank had snapped in half but was able to grab itself and keep turning all cylenders.

My point is if the cars engine seizes solid as was said, why didn't the wheels lock up ? Not having much to do with auto's I just wondered if the torque converter releases or something similar.

Cheers Ean

The gearbox requires the crankshaft to be turning to run the pump to engage the torque converter and to supply oil pressure to the clutches. No turning, no connection between the crankshaft and the gearbox o/p shaft.

The TDV6 bottom end failures, including 3.0s, are quite rare so assuming proper maintenance was done, the OP is extremely unlucky. I hope not to be so unlucky with my 3.0.

Edit: I've been unlucky, with a TD5 needing a new head.

Mate of mine had a gearbox sieze in a jap van at 80 k's

Now that certainly was an interesting stop with a locked rear.....

As mentioned by Graeme,servicing has been an issue with some D3's that have had engine failure.I remembering reading a thread about one in South Africa that had been serviced at 20k but with the sulphur content of the fuel over there should have been done at 10K intervals.

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Originally Posted by scarry

Mate of mine had a gearbox sieze in a jap van at 80 k's

Now that certainly was an interesting stop with a locked rear.....

As mentioned by Graeme,servicing has been an issue with some D3's that have had engine failure.I remembering reading a thread about one in South Africa that had been serviced at 20k but with the sulphur content of the fuel over there should have been done at 10K intervals.

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Slightly off topic from O P, but comes down to oil is cheap, change oil every 10,000ks reguardless of type of oil, Seems to be since modern car makes have tried to stretch out servicing and synthetic oils are the rage, mechanical failures seem to be more common.

Thats my view of course, and dont want to start another oils debate, god knows they only deteriorate rapidly. I really think modern day cars, D3 included have unrealistic oil change intervals on ALL components.

As I said before, I hope that techno gets this sorted and he gets to enjoy the D3 for the vehicle it is.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by technoplague

For oil inspection, it will cost ~700$, however it should also be in last service receipts that I've requested.

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Recently I had an issue with the oil in my D4. Cause to believe the wrong oil had been used. Oil inspection by independent lab cost $26 so I'm at a loss to understand where the $700 comes from.

And yes the wrong oil had been used.

If you are in Sydney Norwest give Greg a call (0404 185 383) he is a mechanic for several years and works for a very reputable independent repairer here in the Hills and is doing all my work on my D3 and D2 can not recommend him highly enough...

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Originally Posted by Steve223

If you are in Sydney Norwest give Greg a call (0404 185 383) he is a mechanic for several years and works for a very reputable independent repairer here in the Hills and is doing all my work on my D3 and D2 can not recommend him highly enough...

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Steve, thanks a lot for recommendation. I will consider contacting Greg, however now I will probably go ahead with replacement done by the service where car resides at the moment, as their quote for labour was the lowest.

As in regards the oil inspection, it got organized and it costs 60$ and is done by accredited LAB. I will have result on Wed, however, as stated, car just had the oil service done, so I don't expect much from there.