Damn, nothing is easy on these things hey, jiggle siphon not even close to reaching the fuel, garden hose got about an inch into the top I reckon grrrrr.
Managed to get some diesel out of it, put it in a clear bottle with another batch of fresh diesel and no seperation line appeared overnight.
How do I check the hp pump?
How do I check the crank sensor?
Any other ideas before it gos on the tilt tray?
Thanks
Swaggie
Did you get the fuel out of the bleed valve which would have confirmed that the tank pump is working? Swap the fuel pump relay (R103) with another to prove the relay and check the fuel pump fuse (engine bay F4 25A) if you can't confirm that the tank pump is operating.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Tank pump is working, getting fuel out of the valve on top of the engine
Swaggie
Have you checked the battery voltage? Cranking is no indication that its high enough although a failing battery wouldn't crank for long.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Has anyone ever heard of a C A Senser failing on a D3. I have been trying to see where it is but no luck picking it out from all the other senders on the car.
Cheers Ean
It came up on a few of my google searches, apparently it's on the lhs of the block near the starter motor.
Wizard
The problem has been found however the resolution is not easy.
The idler pulley bracket for the cam belts has cracked and broken releasing tension on the cam belts. The clue was that there was a cam sensor error.
Apparently they are seeing this problem fairly frequently and there is an upgraded bracket which has webbing to strengthen it.
The mechanic has told them that the whole motor requires replacement. They have offered the owner $4-5000 to buy it to wreck.
As the motor was not running when it failed (it appears that the problem occurred while trying to re-start) I'm thinking that there may just be just some bent valves.
Has anyone had the heads off a 2.7l TDV6? Has anyone replaced valves?
It seems silly to wreck a whole car just because of some bent valves and a broken pulley bracket.
Fuji white RRS L494 AB Gone
2023 Ford Ranga
That idler pulley bracket as you're describing it, is actually the oil pump housing, and yes, it is a known problem.
If you have a search around on Disco3.co.uk, you'll find a few on there that have rebuilt heads successfully. Apparently it's easier to do if you can take the body off.
Master
Sounds like the infamous oil pump issue - your mechanic is correct, it's not an uncommon issue on TDV6s... The original oil pumps (front cover of the engine) on all TDV6s but apparently even more so on 07-09MY were cast using a soft metal - would be ok if the pump didn't have the mounting for the timing belt tensioner cast into it. The mount combined with the metal choice means that occasionally the whole tensioner can break off and that a death sentence to at least the valves.
You should be able to get new valves, but like everything else on this engine, it's not a walk in the park. It would be worth removing the engine to see if anything else is damaged. I'm assuming you won't want to take the $4-5K.
This is NOT a maintenance issue and LR know about the problem - hence the revised oil pump which does indeed have a lot more webbing and is cast from a different alloy. A lot of guys in the UK seem to be having success getting LR to replace the engines, as this is a major design fault that LR know about and have not issued a recall. Might be worth having a lawyer look at the case. ESPECIALLY if the car had <168K as it hasn't even made it to LR's specified interval for T/Belt. Hence not fit for purpose.
Check this thread on disco3.co.uk
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Cam belt tensioner mount failure survey
So sorry that this has happened to you
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