Thread: Lucky8’s Project Discovery 3

I would have thought that in snow DSC off and TR set to GGS or even sand would have been best. You could also try Mud Ruts in deep snow.

Trial and error with the TR settings and throttle positioning and use would probably find the optimum for the conditions.

I agree, there was virtually no snow on the trail.

About all I can think of is that the rubber on the tyres is a warm weather desert sand or mud rubber, not a winter snow rubber.

I drive in that sort of snow about five months a year here with not a lot of problems. I do have winter rubber however, (the narrow 235 65 R18 XL stock sized Pirelli Ice and Snow), and am careful not to spin my tyres as the tread gets wet and then for certain there is no traction. Also narrow rubber is better in both snow and mud; wide works best for sand so one can float on top. One might air down for sand or rock, but not for snow or mud.

If I am on a real road in six inches to a foot of snow, my max speed might be 40/50 miles an hour; off road, maybe 10/20 mph as I do not want to be jerking my steering wheel around as I will for certain go off the trail. When it is for real deep snow, I will stop and look for some time before I proceed and then it will be slowly - about the only time I have used low range was thru snow - perhaps push forward, reverse, push forward again, that sort of thing. Also stop on level or high places so you are pointing down; you do not want to have to start by going uphill if you can avoid it; you do not want to spin your wheels.

I also might have the truck sitting at max height just to make certain the belly is not dragging when at low speed and in deep snow.

On paved or gravelled government roads, probably I am using the snow setting as I think the anti skid works there quite well and the gas pedal sensitivity is tamed down; for slow speed off road, probably in the mud and ruts instead. In all cases, the goal is to remain between the ditches; where you are on the road does not matter as long as you are on the road.

As to oncoming traffic, slow right down but keep moving and memorize the road ahead. They may maintain speed and you will be in a whiteout for maybe 30 very long seconds. That also means you let other guys pass you and you keep a real distance behind traffic as there is a tendency to follow them into the ditch if following too close or just run into the back of them as from the rear, with their tail light covered in snow, they tend to look just like a heavy snow storm - in fact that is the clue - if the snow suddenly gets real thick in front of you, slack off.

My general feeling is that in snow, speed is not desirable as you will bounce in the ruts and loose control; yes, keeping momentum up is important, but do not spin the wheels as the rubber gets wet.

Looking at the pictures, it looks to me like it was fairly warm out and the thread was very clean - usually snow is packed in the grooves and I did not see any.

Those are my thoughts - others may disagree.

Originally Posted by bbyer

I agree, there was virtually no snow on the trail. About all I can think of is that the rubber on the tyres is a warm weather desert sand or mud rubber, not a winter snow rubber. I drive in that sort of snow about five months a year here with not a lot of problems. I do have winter rubber however, (the narrow 235 65 R18 XL stock sized Pirelli Ice and Snow), and am careful not to spin my tyres as the tread gets wet and then for certain there is no traction. Also narrow rubber is better in both snow and mud; wide works best for sand so one can float on top. One might air down for sand or rock, but not for snow or mud. If I am on a real road in six inches to a foot of snow, my max speed might be 40/50 miles an hour; off road, maybe 10/20 mph as I do not want to be jerking my steering wheel around as I will for certain go off the trail. When it is for real deep snow, I will stop and look for some time before I proceed and then it will be slowly - about the only time I have used low range was thru snow - perhaps push forward, reverse, push forward again, that sort of thing. Also stop on level or high places so you are pointing down; you do not want to have to start by going uphill if you can avoid it; you do not want to spin your wheels. I also might have the truck sitting at max height just to make certain the belly is not dragging when at low speed and in deep snow. On paved or gravelled government roads, probably I am using the snow setting as I think the anti skid works there quite well and the gas pedal sensitivity is tamed down; for slow speed off road, probably in the mud and ruts instead. In all cases, the goal is to remain between the ditches; where you are on the road does not matter as long as you are on the road. As to oncoming traffic, slow right down but keep moving and memorize the road ahead. They may maintain speed and you will be in a whiteout for maybe 30 very long seconds. That also means you let other guys pass you and you keep a real distance behind traffic as there is a tendency to follow them into the ditch if following too close or just run into the back of them as from the rear, with their tail light covered in snow, they tend to look just like a heavy snow storm - in fact that is the clue - if the snow suddenly gets real thick in front of you, slack off. My general feeling is that in snow, speed is not desirable as you will bounce in the ruts and loose control; yes, keeping momentum up is important, but do not spin the wheels as the rubber gets wet. Looking at the pictures, it looks to me like it was fairly warm out and the thread was very clean - usually snow is packed in the grooves and I did not see any. Those are my thoughts - others may disagree.

Interesting post.

This just goes to show that you need to know your vehicle and it's capabilities well- and then choose the right settings for the conditions.

Most of us over here (In AUS) may be competent on steep rocky climbs, sand and even mud- but most of us wouldn't get the chance to drive in snow for months on end!

The info about not spinning and melting the snow is gold. Makes perfect sense when you think about, I'm guessing that the melted snow quickly forms ice.

Tire spinning seems to work in mud but not in snow; you either go sideways or are just stuck; and yes, spinning rubber makes water and ice, good in a glass on a hot day, but not the best under your wheels in the winter.

The comment I made in the previous post re the Terrain Response Snow setting about the gas pedal getting softer, (sensitivity tamed down), is Land Rovers way of reducing the tendency for a wheel to spin upon startup or even when rolling.

On startup in snow on a nice winter day, (warmer than -15C or +5F), particularily when the sun is out, any degree of tyre spin will ice up the snow under plus the heat generated by prolonged tyre spin melts the snow to lubricate the newly formed ice. Greased ball bearings is what you have and the odds are you lurch sideways rather than tracking forward.


You can guess what happens if as the vehicle starts to edge sideways, you goose it. If you have lockers, it is instant spin out and the ditch; that is why I made the comment that success is remaining between the ditches.

Interestingly, real cold snow is easier to drive on. When it gets tending towards -40 C, (-40F), most drivers wisely stay home so for the most part, the only guys left on the highways out of town are people paid to drive. As such, traffic tends to be reduced so you only have to drive for yourself. The posers are already in the ditch.

The jpg I took in May of last year was almost a typical snow removal day out on the jobsite. A D6 widepad will get stuck if the operator allows a track to spin as well - ice it up under a track and the Cat is stopped or start spinning in a circle.

bbyer, your advice on snow driving is invaluable & greatly appreciated - unlike it was in the General Chat section recently

Until you mentioned it, I had never looked in the General Chat - yes, it is different.

I found the jpg below on a US Forum of a 3 handling a bit of snow with true spirit. My guess is the 3 is going about 40 mph in the snow setting, high range, normal height, and near stock wheels.

The brush bar makes a good looking driving light mount. I presume someone on the forum will know this 3.

BBYER has made an important point about traction in snow. Snow grips snow, you actually want your treads full of snow (not ice). Specific snow tyres are designed to do this. Unlike mud where spinning the tyres is to clear the treads to gain traction. Aggressive tyres in snow is the same as aggressive tyres in sand - they are designed to dig, where an all terrain is better in these situations.
An narrow agressive tyre can be an advantage in snow if you have a good base under the snow where the tyres can dig down too to get grip on the surface below the snow.