You may need to replace the desiccant and filter.. This is a common cause of your symptoms.
So I don't have any obvious leaks. It holds it's height overnight.
Just seems like the compressor is on a lot more than it should be,
The compressor seems quite noisy, I can hear it ftom the drivers seat with car running and lately the suspension slow to rise warning appears when going to off-road height. Just sitting here writing this the compressor has been on and off three times??
Thanks
You may need to replace the desiccant and filter.. This is a common cause of your symptoms.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						The compressor will wear-out if left too long.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberSpeaking from experience here - I have just replaced the Hitachi compressor in my MY06 RRS with the new AMK compressor.
I did a bit of exploratory surgery on my old compressor after I swapped it out. Many of the silica beads in the dryer had turned to sand or dust. These fine particles get caught in the filters in the inlet and outlet sides of the dryer. The compressor then has to work harder to force air through the dryer and onto the reservoir relief valve. With the compressor working harder, more heat is generated which, despite the overheating cutout safety measure, causes the compressor cylinder seal to deteriorate. Minute particles of the cylinder seal further block the Dryer filters. But of course, the main problem with a failing compressor cylinder seal is that the efficiency of the compressor is compromised. The cylinder seal in mine was pretty much non-existent.
The obliterated silica beads and a worn compressor cylinder seal, both lead to the "Suspension Raising Slowly" error. If left long enough, this error is quickly followed by yellow, then red Suspension Fault errors, and a very bouncy ride until you stop and restart (reboot?) the vehicle.
FWIW even after I swapped out my compressor and had the software update performed (to the tune of $174 at a major LR dealer in Melbourne!!), I still had the occasional Suspension Fault. Using a cheap ELM327 bluetooth OBDII dongle, and Story Wilson's 4Dcan Software Tool, I was able to identify a faulty rear left EAS Sensor. I sprayed some CRC Contact Spray around the switch and the connection, and the fault hasn't returned. Although I will be replacing the sensor this weekend just to be sure.
Where's best to get the desiccant and filter?
Can't seem to find em
This is a link that shows the air dryer, LR part number VUB504700. Replacing the dryer is the easiest way to resolve the desiccant concern.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060/Compressor Air Drier
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberIn my opinion you're better off replacing the old Hitachi compressor with the new AMK one.
Here's a pretty good thread on DISCO3.CO.UK on how to replace the compressor:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - AMK Suspension Compressor Replacement
It's fairly crucial to have a good selection of socket extensions and a uni joint to do the job.
Part # for the new compressor is LR045251. I buy all my parts from lrdirect.com. I'm all for supporting Australian businesses, but we're getting ripped off when we can buy the parts in from OS at half the local price including shipping. There's a bunch of other suppliers that you can buy LR parts from. Google the part number and you'll find them. I think there's also a section in AULRO that lists a bunch of suppliers both local and OS.
In any case, you can get a compressor overhaul kit from a guy in the UK who makes up the kit himself and sells them on eBay. LandyAir.
If you are going to just overhaul the compressor and not replace it, I would also recommend replacing the EAS Relay. Part # YWB500220. The new relay is included with a new compressor if you choose to go down that path. The old 60amp relay is prone to sticking, apparently.
If you want to replace parts on the compressor rather than overhaul them, part # VUB504700 is the whole Drier Assembly. And you'll also need a new Delivery Valve (part # LR020590). And the relay.
All LR part numbers can be sourced from the online version of Microcat.
Landrover Parts Catalog
In my case, after working out the price difference between overhauling the compressor or replacing it, for the sake of approximately $400 I decided to replace it and be done with it.
The new compressor requires a software update. The vehicle still drives fine without it. But I think they've changed duty rates for the new compressor in the software update. Ring around different LR workshops to get a quote for that. I made the mistake of just going to my normal LR dealer without asking them for a quote. I got a quote from Ritters to do it for $100. But the LR dealer that I went to charged $174 for the same work.
You live and learn I suppose.
I ended up getting an overhaul kit from landy air.
148$ compared to a new compressor plus I live very remote and nearest place to reprogram is over a thousand kms away
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I purchased a valve kit for my compressor $16 replaced the silica gel blow out the felt filters and 12 months down the road still running like new. Up and down with gusto and haven't had one fault show up. I a firm believer start with the simplest and then progress to the hardest, if all else fails. Good luck hope everything works out.
Cheers
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
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