Thread: Disco 4 Aftermarket Xenon Lights installation

The Ballast is what creates the Spark so to speak to create the Arc to ignite the Gas.

Keep this open guys in the next couple of days if i get a chance i will play around & see if i swap a headlight & if it just works!!

Originally Posted by sheerluck

What, you and Kev are sharing one?

Oh mine wont spill, I use a cap and a straw ;-)

Originally Posted by phl

I gather in the D4, with the Bi-Xenon setting, the car sends a higher voltage spike to the bulb to enable faster shrinking and to achieve full intensity sooner. You see that in most modern HID cars, where there is an initial bright flash, the intensity drops to normal (or at least I've noticed it in the BMWs and Mercs, as well as mine). There were also several people complaining on the UK forum about poor halogen bulb life, which turned out to be cause by incorrect CCF, which when change back to no Bi-Xenon, came good.

Of course there is nothing to stop an after market HID kit to do the same thing, although there may be a slight lag as a capacitor charges (I assume).

So .... I've just had a BFO moment (Blinding Flash of the Obvious)....

My wife's Merc has adaptive lights that go through a whole wiggle and wobble process every time you turn them on. Does the shutter on a Bi-Xenon D4 do the same ... albeit only open and close the shutter as part of a test cycle? This would explain the sudden flash? Or do they definitely pre-heat the bulb?

I can't try my older xenon equipped D4 right now as I don't store it here, as I have no room.

Originally Posted by sniegy

Keep this open guys in the next couple of days if i get a chance i will play around & see if i swap a headlight & if it just works!!

Hopefully you'll be alble to change the CCF spec after an initial test asis to see what difference it makes.

Edit: I just realised that I could change mine's spec to 'bi-xenon not fitted' to note the difference in start-up!

OK

Been there, done that!

I fitted ebay special H7 HID's into both low and high beam on my 2005 S model.

There is a definite warm up period on both. On low beam it doesn't matter as by the time I've moved from the parking space they are full bore.

On high beam it can take a couple of seconds to warm up fully. However, if you then have to dip for an oncoming vehicle and then go back up again, the delay is very much reduced.

I tried the CCF change but it did nothing.

I love them and would recommend the change to anyone.

There were NO problems with messages or warnings at all, just great light.

Regards

Originally Posted by Graeme

Hopefully you'll be alble to change the CCF spec after an initial test asis to see what difference it makes.

Edit: I just realised that I could change mine's spec to 'bi-xenon not fitted' to note the difference in start-up!

Graeme,
Was there any noticeable difference.
I can edit CCF files if needed.

At the start of the week i had different vehicles, now all i have at present are vehicles with HID's

Hi guys, long time no speak on here!

I have a non-HID 2011 D4 SE which I fitted a Super Cheap Auto H7 HID kit to the low beams last year. There had been zero problems with anything until one light started turning off at random and then a week later the other one started!
The lights would always come back on immediately with a simple off/on of the switch.

I strongly suspect the bulbs as minor bumps seemed to trigger the faults. Super Cheap swapped the system over under warranty & what I noticed was whiter/brighter light output with the replacement setup in. Again, with this & the cloudy discolouration of the bulbs - I suspect the bulbs them selves.

A few observations of mine relating to comments throughout here are ...
These Super Cheap ones also "flash" to fire up(start), and I also understand this is just the requirement to "ignite" the gas.(ie. they will ALL do this).
I previously had a bi-zenon Subaru Liberty where they got to full brightness quicker, and I think the better quality units will, but it's a small sacrifice for low beam units. These Super Cheap ones can be slow when very cold.
Colour temperature is a product of a light's wavelength, and lower temperature(more towards yellow)= shorter wavelength which = better penetration of air/atmosphere. This is better for distance light & vision. Get 4300k which is closest to daylight. I got a 35W kit which I find 100% adequate for low beam, a 55W may be too dazzling for other cars AND you!!!

The Subaru's washers worked the same as my ones do & always have - a wash every so many windscreen washes, and that must meet ADRs. I also have to assume it's to do with diffraction through a dirty headlight potentially causing dangerous glare.

Good luck with all the other experimenting guys!

Les.

Originally Posted by Celtoid

Thanks Graeme,

I had a 52,000ft concept that the CCF is a 'Library' of what is and isn't enabled in the car. I didn't realise that it goes beyond that, including non-electronic configuration items, until you mentioned it.

I've always suspected, mentioned in earlier posts, that the CCF would/could be pivotal in the operation of the Xenon Headlights, otherwise there would be no need for a CCF upgrade. However was unsure to what extent.

Well meaning individuals that have discussed this, have possibly muddied the water querying about loom differences, how much the actual headlight module does and doesn't do, etc. I've worked in the aviation and defence aerospace industry for years and know that operators, even with a level of engineering authority, don't get access to all the data about their platform. So I guess there are similarities in that regard, that LR Dealers don't get the complete picture and it's only the intrepid owners/vendors that are willing to work with the data they have and reverse engineer the rest, that work stuff out.

So it appears that the circuit splitting occurs inside the light module, initiating shutter opening, etc and is not driven by a separate part of the wiring loom itself. That's very useful to know for folks that may be trying to spot an obvious difference.

I understand what you say about the resale attractiveness of my older D4 if it's had options removed, although I would always fully disclose this. Maybe, I should look at the second hand parts market .... it would probably give me more time to find a contact in Brisbane that can guarantee a result.

Thanks again for your help mate.

Cheers,

Kev.

Have you tried all rover spares (?? I think that's the name) in Adelaide ? They seem to have everything for LRs