trailer wiring

torero and pete and others.
thanks so much for all your imput.
the trailer icon does not appear at all,nor does it blink.
i have the linear electronic device fitted with a switch ,on for towing,off for normal,appears to make no difference.
the wiring for the brake and tail light are now thru the towing fuse box in the rear,
i have the wiring diagram for the car and show to the auto elec,he could not see why it was not responding.
i cannot test with car in reverse as i have a kaymar rear bar with wheel carrier and the park assist do not like this as they cannot be switched off unless i disconnect the beeper,which is what has been done.
so from what i have read in the replies am i right in saying that a resistor need to be installed.
thanks so much for the help as i want this sorted
boardrider

You say you have the Linear electronics box installed, this all you need to solve your issues on the D3.

It should be on when using a trailer with LEDs and off otherwise.

If it is not working I would try the following:

• try the switch in both positions in case it is wired in opposite to what you expect
• verify the unit is wired in correctly
• verify the device is not faulty

Again, you should not need anything else if you have this device installed.

EDIT: let us know that you verified that the trailer dash light does not flash when you indicate.
As Pete said earlier, the light does not come on otherwise. from the manual:

Quote:

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The trailer warning indicator lamp illuminates as a bulb check when the
ignition is turned on and extinguishes when the engine is started.
If the lamp does not flash with the direction indicators, the trailer bulb may be faulty.

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I have a pulse buster on the Camper Trailer that we used with the D3 (Because of LED Trailer Lights) - I have just bought a D4 - do I still run the pulse buster? or do the D4's pick up the LED's?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by boardrider

torero and pete and others.
thanks so much for all your imput.
the trailer icon does not appear at all,nor does it blink.
i have the linear electronic device fitted with a switch ,on for towing,off for normal,appears to make no difference.
the wiring for the brake and tail light are now thru the towing fuse box in the rear,
i have the wiring diagram for the car and show to the auto elec,he could not see why it was not responding.
i cannot test with car in reverse as i have a kaymar rear bar with wheel carrier and the park assist do not like this as they cannot be switched off unless i disconnect the beeper,which is what has been done.
so from what i have read in the replies am i right in saying that a resistor need to be installed.
thanks so much for the help as i want this sorted
boardrider

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If you have a device, then take pictures to help us help you - too many variables to consider.

If you can take the lid of the device, then more pictures please of the guts !

Sounds like you have a wiring fault.

Another thing I am surprised about is that your reverse sensors do not work with the Kaymar bar - I have seen these working on a D3 with kaymar. I suspect you have been seeing someone who doesn't really know what they are doing. Again my 2 cents worth, but it sounds like a plausible root cause of some of your troubles..............

Tor

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scary

I have a pulse buster on the Camper Trailer that we used with the D3 (Because of LED Trailer Lights) - I have just bought a D4 - do I still run the pulse buster? or do the D4's pick up the LED's?

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Scary, If you don't have the pulse buster, you'll still need the resistors in parallel to the trailer indicators.

Lets see if we can clear this up a bit.

For starters, if your trailer has incandescent bulbs, then you don't need to do anything. The resistance that these bulbs produce, is enough for the cars to recognise that the trailer is connected.

So, if you have LED's on your trailer, then:

D3 - you might need a Pulsebuster or similar item. Basically the resistors & relays. The D3 sends a continual pulse down the line to check the trailer is still connected.

D4 - you only need a resistor across ONE of the indicator circuits, say the right turn for instance. Connect trailer, flick right indicator on, trailer light blinks in time on the dash, and the car knows the trailer is there.


NOW - common to both:

You do not NEED to add anything, even if you have LED's on the trailer. If, for instance, your towing consists of taking the 6 x 4 to the tip once every couple of months, then I wouldn't bother.

If you have a camper or are towing a bit more, or with heavy loads, then sure, you might want to get something arranged.



Lets put some of these into context:

Quote:
The rear parking aid sensors can be disabled as well as the vehicle’s rear fog and reversing lights in order to eliminate reflected glare from the front of a trailer. Parking sensors yes. Or, you can push the button. Why would you have your fog lights on anyway, when they are in the bumper & wont be seen if you have a trailer connected?
The Body Computer can communicate its trailer recognition to the following:
Suspension – at highway speeds automatic changes to ride height can be disabled to reduce the possibility of directional instability in the vehicle and trailer. Ummm. What speed does a D4 drop at? 160 kmh or similar?
Anti-Lock Brakes, Stability and Traction Control – when in motion alternate strategies can be applied to control the dynamics of the vehicle and trailer. Yes - the cars have a "Trailer Dynamic Stability Control program. Again, only really comes into play at higher speeds, and with higher loads.
Power Train Control – engine fuelling, throttle response, automatic transmission shift points, enhanced dynamic engine braking, etc. for the vehicle.This I don't know about for certain. But, I doubt it would make any difference on the D3 / D4
Trailer lighting –turn signals, park and/or brake LEDs on the trailer that were continuously blinking will no longer do so.Applicable for the D3. But, thats what you bought the box for anyway.



Boardrider - Before you go spending more time chasing this, drop into an auto electrician, or your local dealer, and get them to check with a lighting board. I would guess they have both incandescent & LED boards, so should be able to sort out what is going on pretty quick.

Basil, a couple of things, you only get the button to disable sensors if you have front sensors too, so annoying if you cant switch them off, the trailer stability program is active from 60kph and yes it does make the adaptions to the "power train" as described.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SBD4

Basil, a couple of things, you only get the button to disable sensors if you have front sensors too, so annoying if you cant switch them off, the trailer stability program is active from 60kph and yes it does make the adaptions to the "power train" as described.

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Thanks for that. Wasn't sure if the button was standard on all fitments or not. Mine has it, so presumed it was.

The trailer stability program is a great thing. I have seen it in action, on a couple of videos. My thinking was that if you have a lightly loaded 6 x 4, using it around town, then I doubt you would notice that behind the car.

And thanks. I didn't realise the cars were "that" smart to be able to adapt the powertrain as well. Learn something new every day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Basil135

Lets see if we can clear this up a bit.















Boardrider - Before you go spending more time chasing this, drop into an auto electrician, or your local dealer, and get them to check with a lighting board. I would guess they have both incandescent & LED boards, so should be able to sort out what is going on pretty quick.

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Not necessarily so. Local dealer plugged in his led trailer lights test board to our vehicle after I had a bit of trouble with the trailer module & the linear elec box. Their led test light box worked fine no pulsing & recognised by car (without the linear elec box connected) . Get it home and plug in the van - no go still pulsing & not recognised :(

Double Post