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Thread: D3 front end "clunking"

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Mount Royal
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    61
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    I have replaced all bushes and now the tie rods. I had same noises so do it all if you can.

    Changes everything when you do this. Feels better to drive.

    And yes they are all easy to do yourself.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Balbarrup WA
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    575
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    doing it all

    Yes did mean "anti roll" bars, did 1000k's on gravel over weekend, only got the "clunk" when suspension dropping down in small holes or off rocks.
    Will explore/change all things that look like bushes, then that rubber fitting on top of air shock if all else fails.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wollongong
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    With the d-rubbers you can loosen off the mounts and put a bit of rubber under them to see if that is the issue. I'd also suggest checking the lower steering column shaft as I have had a clunk from the uni joint there. Not sure that the top of the strut is replaceable (or even if it is a likely candidate - assume you've checked the top nuts are tight ?) - I have a front strut under the house so let me know if you'd like me to look at it or post a photo if that would help. Good luck !

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    I have to replace my LCAs as well. Has anyone DIY'd them and if so, is it reasonably straightforward?


    EDIT: Scratch that, just read the post a couple above mine saying easy to do yourself...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Balbarrup WA
    Posts
    575
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    When I did my LCA's the biggest problem was undoing the drive shaft nuts in centre of hub. Needed a metre power bar and a length of pipe on it, might have been easier if that was the first nut I had tackled (with the wheels still on the ground and and chocked, rarther than the last nut with most of it hanging in air and able to move about when I applied pressure to undo. Other than that, pretty straightforward job. Any replacement LCA should now be all ugraded D4 with heavier ball joint fitted.. Order new shaft nuts when you order parts.
    I attach a PDF of what info I have on removal, didn't have any of the listed special tools.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by vbrab; 3rd June 2014 at 09:20 AM. Reason: add PDF

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wantirna South, Vic
    Posts
    1,459
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    What's the part numbers for the D4 version please?
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
    LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
    Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Balbarrup WA
    Posts
    575
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    D4 LCA part numbers

    As I understood the supplier of my LCA's, all replacement LCA's for D3's are now same specs as for D4's. Perhaps query that with supplier when you order.
    There is even a heavier version (for armoured D3's/ RR's).
    I just accepted the replacment LCA's (Brit parts), which have the bigger lower ball joint as per D4's.
    Seems replacement steering rack is also "ugraded" to D4 specs.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW Far South Coast
    Posts
    685
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    Just finished fitting the little rubber bits to the anti-roll bar bushes.

    Quite easy ONCE you get the top nuts loose. They are a bugger to get at.

    I tried just about every socket, extension, wobbly bit, etc that I own and when just about to give up, it came loose.

    You don't even have to take the nuts off. Just loosen them and push the rubber bits between the bushes and the chassis. Tighten up and all done!

    By the way the rubber bits cost me $7.80 for a pack of four from my local dealer! (The second pair are for the rear ones.)

    Now I have to go off-road to see if it stops the knock! Damn.

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