Wizard
SupporterThanks for the info, I was asking for the general forum members.
I thought I may have had a diff issue but it seems to be either the A/C compressor or belt tensioner making an engine revs related whirring sound.
I will however pass on you info to my mechanic.
2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64
Master
No problem. I'd be curious at the outcome on your AC. I have heard some people repair a bearing in it, but never any details on that. I have the whirring as well, have had for some time. I've heard everything from Low refrigerant to belts, pulleys, etc. I put new belts, tensioners on a while back, so I don't think that's the issue.
Master
Now here's a question: what if a non e diff car had its rear diff replaced with a rear e diff?
The reason I ask is that today, when I picked up my car from its major service I was told I had an e diff. My car recently had both its diffs replaced by a dealer (not same garage) and I definitely did not have an e diff before....
A Keeper of the TGO
It would mean nothing unless the relevant ECU and wiring looms were installed to allow it become operational.
Good thing is the hardest(physical) part is done - you could source the rest of the parts and embark on a fun project to enable it
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Master
Isn't the rear axle different as well on an e-diff equipped Discovery?Originally Posted by SBD4
It would mean nothing unless the relevant ECU and wiring looms were installed to allow it become operational.
Good thing is the hardest(physical) part is done - you could source the rest of the parts and embark on a fun project to enable it
tiddy
A Keeper of the TGO
I think the half shafts are heavier duty for the e-diff. If all the mechanical hardware is installed then all that is required is the electrical components and activation in the CCF to make it work. not a trivial task though.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Swaggie
If you have the e-diff hardware (and stepper motor) installed then the easiest way would be to add a switch to control it manually (as per unseenone's posts).
Have you looked underneath to see if you have one of these? (note stepper motor on top).
http://www.bristoltransmissions.co.u...-134-large.jpg
Swaggie
...
Last edited by isuzurover; 3rd July 2014 at 12:13 AM. Reason: duplicate post
Wizard
Not sure if anyone has seen it, but there was a recent Top Gear USA episode where they "race" a Jeep something or other, a FJ Cruiser and a D4 across Arizona. The D4 had manual switches retrofitted to lock front and rear diffs. Not sure which kit it was fitted.
Master
We commonly fit an e-diff, less the electric motor, with a silver plate installed. It's a better diff. I highly doubt that they installed a full e-diff in place of an open one, and then wired, and activated it.
Yes, the axles are heavier duty on the locking diff, but you can direct swap them if you remove the motor.
The one featured on top gear was the owner of expedition portal forums in America, it is fitted with ARB front / rear lockers and compressor, etc. The only issues are the cost, the addition of a compressor, and the fact they don't offer new gears or bearings, which we have available if you choose that direction.
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