Alternator Failure?

Good stuff Graeme,

Is the D3 2.7 ltr alternator also rated at 180a ? Does anyone know it's rating

Cheers Ean

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I finally installed a dedicated alternator B+ cable on my 3.0 today. Its 2m long, enclosed in fluted sheath, cable-tied to the starter cable at various points and is fitted with a 200A fuse just prior to connecting to the battery. My backup/spare fuse is 225A, being the next higher rated one in case 200A isn't quite enough for the 180A-rated alternator.

The alternator B+ stud was accessed from below rather than drain coolant, remove the fan, ancillary belt, tensioner and the alternator. The cable from the starter has yet to be cut off, temporarily held out of harm's way with several cable-ties - a job for another day. Lost some skin but that's mechanicing.

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Excellent work. I for one would love a couple of photos. But given the lost skin, perhaps that might be stretching the friendship:angel:
Cheers,
Scott

The 2.7's alternator is rated at 150A.

How often would a alternator get near it's max amp rating? Seems a lot of amps to be pumping out.

Cheers Ean

There's not much to take pictures of other than the fuse at the battery end.

Getting the cable to do a U-turn at the alternator to match the bracket crimped on the original cable was a tad frustrating due to working with fingertips only but otherwise just ran the new cable behind the starter cable as it worked its way under the sump and up the inside of the left guard, making sure it travelled the same path around various hoses in case the body has to be removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/03/324.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

How often would a alternator get near it's max amp rating? Seems a lot of amps to be pumping out.

Cheers Ean

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battery, 60amps
audio amp, 60 amps
lights, 10amps


just a guess

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I finally installed a dedicated alternator B+ cable on my 3.0 today. Its 2m long, enclosed in fluted sheath, cable-tied to the starter cable at various points and is fitted with a 200A fuse just prior to connecting to the battery. My backup/spare fuse is 225A, being the next higher rated one in case 200A isn't quite enough for the 180A-rated alternator.

The alternator B+ stud was accessed from below rather than drain coolant, remove the fan, ancillary belt, tensioner and the alternator. The cable from the starter has yet to be cut off, temporarily held out of harm's way with several cable-ties - a job for another day. Lost some skin but that's mechanicing.

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Maybe the 3.0l is different , but how the hell did you get your hand in to loosen the bolt on the back of the alternator and fit the new cable. I cant even see the lug let alone try and get to it. Will have a closer look, but that's a darn good effort.


Cheers Ean

I was able to get a 13mm stepped ring spanner onto the nut to loosen it then span it off using fingertips. It took a while to put the nut back on straight but once there span it again with fingertips then tightened with the ring spanner. Not much space up there so the backs of my hands sustained some bruising from working against the chassis rail getting the new cable so that it looped back behind a light metal bracket to which the original cable was tied. I temporarily removed the 2 lower screws holding the bracket in place so that it could be temporarily bent out of the way to get behind it.

On a 2.7 it might be quicker and easier to remove the alternator the normal way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I was able to get a 13mm stepped ring spanner onto the nut to loosen it then span it off using fingertips. It took a while to put the nut back on straight but once there span it again with fingertips then tightened with the ring spanner. Not much space up there so the backs of my hands sustained some bruising from working against the chassis rail getting the new cable so that it looped back behind a light metal bracket to which the original cable was tied. I temporarily removed the 2 lower screws holding the bracket in place so that it could be temporarily bent out of the way to get behind it.

On a 2.7 it might be quicker and easier to remove the alternator the normal way.

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Champion effort is all I can say.


Cheers Ean

In case anyone is searching about this down the track... the alternator in a D4 2.7L is different to the alternator in a D3 2.7. :-\

Consequently, it costs more and not as readily available as a D3 one.

Mine was replaced last week and the almost dead one removed was chock-a-block full of mud, dirt, etc. Oops! I'm guessing that heat killed it. :wasntme::angel: Note to self - hose out alternator after muddy runs and river crossings. :D

Now to deal with the coolant leak! :mad: