An almost dead one filled with mud may only have stuck and worn brushes.
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An almost dead one filled with mud may only have stuck and worn brushes.
Any chance of a diagram Graeme? This dummy is having trouble following.
The 3.0 has a coolant tube running below the alternator which is held steady with a bracket to which the alternator cable is also tied. The coolant tube blocks a lot of access to the alternator stud but removing the bracket's lower bolts allows the tube to be moved enough to make a difference. However the coolant tube may not exist on the 2.7 or may have a different form due to the lack of a RH turbo and different EGR valves.
Can the 2.7's stud be seen at all from below?
The photos aren't the best but it looks easy to access the terminal on the D4 2.7's
could be a project to do while I'm changing the lower control arms
Hi folks,
My wife's RRS TDV8 (176000kms) went in for a service at a independent LR mechanic, they say it went flat while they were working on it, battery is 2013 so they're assuming it's ok. They charged and restarted it, said alternator only putting out 12.8V or something, needs replacing ($1660 please). They didn't really explain to me how they test it - I'm assuming there must be a way of 'tricking' the car into thinking it needs maximum charging voltage?
Wife drives the 8km home, next morning dashlights but not a sausage from the starter. Everyone agrees alternator must be worse than thought.
That evening RACV man (I'm 300kms away at the time) pops in to check the car and lo, it starts like nothing was ever wrong. And it's started happily all day today (6 deg overnight too).
Is there anything other than the alternator that could be playing up? Is it as much of a bugger to replace as the $650ish of labour I've been quoted would suggest?
Thankfully my wife is more than a bit in love with the car, cos she might have to drive it with one arm and one leg...