Thread: How to remove auto trans from D3 ??

The "drumming" is probably more like a whine (tone doesn't really alter much with gear shifts, just can be heard). In past times when a torque convertor has either died or been going to die, I have noticed that they can be heard as almost a whine/hum noise, and when pretty well deceased the noise gets louder and they howl and changes often do not happen.
In this case I only hear it when I am driving about slowly, as perhaps too much road noise when on open road.
Noise does seem to increase with load on trans.
If you are ever having to work your trans (soft sand or pulling heavy), you may hear the torque convertor then, as an oscillating whining "drumming".
My choice of word in "drumming" might not give best description of noise that I have previously heard with torque convertors showing their age.

Just a couple of points about the advice you were given:

It is called a "mechatronics" unit - not megatronic. That is what ZF call the control unit for the box - electronics controlling valve bodies which is connected via a plug - make sure this seal is replaced as well.

The other thing is that if it is replaced, you will need to make sure whomever is doing the work can flash it to suit your car.

The torque converter in our cars uses a single wet plate lockup-clutch to enable lockup in all forward gears.


It apparently can vary the degree of lockup depending on the pressure feed from the solenoid responsible for this in the mechatronic.

While the TC itself is quite robust, it seems to be this lockup clutch that is the weak point, it wears and starts causing problems like slipping and shuddering.

From what most people seem to be saying, a new TC will solve the problems, whereas a rebuilt one can be a bit hit and miss. .

Vbrab the symptoms you are talking about sound like that might relate to a TC without a lockup clutch?

6HP26 trans makes a definite shudder coupled with a brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr noise and vibration through the control surfaces. It starts off quite light, almost unnoticeable - that is where mine is at now.

Certainly wouldn't go for a rebuilt TC. Was aware that the US guy miss labelled the Mechatronics unit, was just putting his quotes in.

Important thing is that box can be done from underneath.
(Thank you all for confirming that.)
I live over 1600k's from nearest competent service options so risk having to do it myself if it dies before I get to the city on annual holidays and can then leave it with workshop.
If I lived in city, would just drive it until it died, no big drama to get it sent to workshop.
Will have to check if my Faultmate Extreme can be used to flash a replacement box to my car....otherwise if it dies it will have to go on a truck to city.
Anybody had any prices for new/rebuilt transmission, and R&R costs?

Re Rich84 comment (below) on vibration through control surfaces.
I have always felt a small (brief) vibration through steering wheel, usually at low speed when starting off (have had it for past 100,000k's), might that be the sort of vibration you refer to?

vbrab, it is definitely most prominent through the steering wheel. It occurs in unison with the 'judder' noise from the converter. If I am ascending a hill in a highish gear at say 1500-2000rpm, I will generally get that slight vibration. If I ease off the throttle, the noise and vibration does too. Alternatively, if I push harder to kickdown, the trans kicks down, revs pick up and the shudder is no longer felt or heard.


Mine is at the point now where I can hear it and feel it, but others cannot. I tried to show my brother last night, but he couldn't hear anything.

Hi Vbrab
A brand new auto gearbox cost me 6k, installation was 1k in Melbourne "Ritter" a year ago in my 2005 SE. I could have grabbed a reconditioned box at about 4k or had mine reconditioned. The body stayed on for mine but I was told that they were very glad one apprentice had very small hands as most of them could not get hands in to a few required places. Hope that helps a little. Regards James