Novel bracket for Light Bar to the new D4

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Originally Posted by PeterOZ

mine has the LR OEM spot which are rubbish lights in terms of output. their mounts go tdown through the bumper and mount robustly to the cross member underneath.

I'd like to for a decent set of LED spots such as ARB have. Not sure on mounting them to the LR bracket though so it does not wobble about and is not easy prey for the thieves.

You can see the setup on the avatar

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Does that allow you to still be able to get the grill off and back on relatively easily?

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Originally Posted by Stuart02

Does that allow you to still be able to get the grill off and back on relatively easily?

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Its a landrover, nothing is easy!! :eek: :twisted: :angel:

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Originally Posted by PeterOZ

Its a landrover, nothing is easy!! :eek: :twisted: :angel:

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Buy more tools :angel:

Land Rover are easy to work on - and a great reason to equip the workshop with more new stuff ;)

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Buy more tools :angel:

Land Rover are easy to work on - and a great reason to equip the workshop with more new stuff ;)

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if you know what you are doing with which I do not apart from cleaning MAP & MAF sensors etc. Basic stuff.


Tools and I have lots of and don't have to seek permission to buy more as I'm single and even when I wasn't I diddn't seek permission. Maybe why I'm single hehehe :angel: :twisted:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Decent LED spots? No such thing unfortunately..

When you look at CRI they lack the ability to render objects clearly at night (like Grey kangaroo on a road/green landscape).

However, if your heart is set on LED - Google "SA Led Lighting" and their LED spots. Equal performance and around $600.00 a pair.

LED tech and HID tech aren't all the hype is made to be when it comes to useful and beneficial light.

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I'm not sure what you are basing this on.

Evidently shooters prefer 4300K for shooting Grey Kangaroos. But Greys have hair on their faces, so for a shooter, the head might matter a lot. While 6000K is preferred for Reds.

In the Southern states, the Red is more popular; in the North, greys are double the number.

Greys also have white fronts, so ... the white front should be visible with higher Kelvin lights, probably ....

I think that LED might have a power benefit, and a longevity benefit. In theory at least ... firms like ARB claim that customers have said to them that their latest and expensive LEDs lights are like nothing they've had before (being really good in comparison). Maybe that is hype ...

With a light bar, they could mix up the kelvin outputs too, and get both light spectrums ... I guess they could do that with round LEDs too. Perhaps that an LED advantage, in that the possibility of mixing Kelvin temps for catching different animals is easy to build. But they don't do that now ... perhaps because there isn't the demand? But you could not mix output temperatures with conventional spot lamps. So, IMO LED has clear advantages, potentially ...

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Originally Posted by cjc_td5

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1434089087


The Fyrlyt lights were too larger diameter and stuck out too far in front of the bumper, risking damage when parking etc.

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I haven't yet got to making a copy of Chris' bracket but this comment got me wondering ... is there rules/regs related to extra driving lights protruding from the front of the vehicle (no bullbar)? I'm not too worried about damage to lights but rather whether there is any legality issues.

Cheers,
Scott

PS ... I think grill removal would be reasonably straightforward with this type of bracket.

Well I am giving these brackets a go. So far I have got some metal bent rather than welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/157.jpg

I have done a temp fix to the vehicle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/158.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/159.jpg

They stick out a bit far so I will trim them back a bit - 5mm.

Thus is what the driving lights look like sitting on the brackets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/160.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/161.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/09/162.jpg

There is still a bit of movement so I will have to look at some more bracing. At the moment I have only got 2 bolts going into the frame behind the bracket.

I'm welding up something this weekend. Going to make up a diagonal for underneath to add extra strength to avoid propensity to flex over undulations. Unfortunately I've got with 9" lights which are a tad big for that position. I'll only run them for trips and remove them for the city

I had a look at a gusset underneath to add some strength but was told not necessary by the bloke who made the bracket for me. I can only put in a small gusset 25mm not sure if it will achieve much. These lights are 9" as well 3kg each.

I am thinking 2 narva light stabiliser bars $16 each. From top of light (cooling fin) to angled frame in front of radiator.

The flat sticking out is wide enough so I can get 2 bolts from light through if I want. It just doesn't look right though. Not symmetrical.

The next problem is that there is nothing to bolt the bottom piece to. Chris went only through the plastic - stiff but not solid. There is metal below it but I have no idea what is under it.

I live in the country so permanent fixture.