Thread: CTEK charger...

Hi Martin and with all but the latest D4s, there is no problem caused by just connecting to the Anderson plug or the S12 SUPPLEMENTARY ( caravan ) plug, to charge your batteries.

With later D4s, while there is no actual problem with using either of the rear connections, after charging, even when connect to the cranking battery itself, you may find the D4 still gives you the LOW BATTERY, START MOTOR message.

If it persists, you may need to pay ( literally ) a visit to your local dealer.

NOTE, if you have to change your battery, you may be up for a similar visit.

ALSO NOTE, a HARD RESET will either fix the problem temporarily or not fix the problem at all.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

With later D4s, while there is no actual problem with using either of the rear connections, after charging, even when connect to the cranking battery itself, you may find the D4 still gives you the LOW BATTERY, START MOTOR message.



If it persists, you may need to pay ( literally ) a visit to your local dealer.



NOTE, if you have to change your battery, you may be up for a similar visit.



ALSO NOTE, a HARD RESET will either fix the problem temporarily or not fix the problem at all.

Hi Tim

Have not had that problem with my MY12 but I've got some mates with MY14s and I've been extolling the virtues of giving a D4 a bit of a monthly top up, especially if they are doing short runs. I was going to lend them my 12s adaptor. Do you think they would be better off charging onto the battery direct and using the earth stud rather than "up the backside"?

A slightly different use, just got a Ctek to refresh my 7aph ups batteries, I must have 50 that have expired due to permanent low voltage, working a treat.

Using the motor bike setting.

Originally Posted by JamesH

I've been extolling the virtues of giving a D4 a bit of a monthly top up, especially if they are doing short runs.

Hi James, topping ( conditioning ) your batteries once a month is a good move with any vehicle and you shouldn’t have any problems.

The problem of continually undercharged cranking batteries appears to be a more common problem with some late MY13 and onwards.

And the problem is happening overseas as well.

LR seem to have a software glitch.

As to topping up once a month, this monthly conditioning of the batteries in ANY make of new vehicle looks looks like being a necessity for many new vehicles but specifically for Land Rovers, if you want to get a decent life span from your batteries.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

And the problem is happening overseas as well.

LR seem to have a software glitch.

How does LR keep doing this to itself? At least they never need be concerned with the competition doing them in - and all these new engines coming. I wonder if they next are going to purchase air bags from Toyota?

I can say that with my Traxide Dual battery install of quite a few years back in my LR3 and my setup to charge both batteries separately using my CTEK US3300, that even when I had an alternator problem, I never did walk.

If there was any problem it was that it took me about a year to figure out the Denso regulator was operating on its partial failure mode sort of failsafe default settings.

As such, my topping up of the batteries most nights in the winter masked the regulator problem - well that was my excuse for taking a year to just simply replace the alternator - except that I had to do it twice due to a second defective regulator - but I was more awake to that the second time - and the third alternator came with a wrong numbered groove pulley - got to love Land Rover.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Traxide Dual Battery install in LHDrive

I noted the hint re hanging the extension cord over the drivers side mirror - that works well, and we often use that technique here when plugging in the block heater cord in the winter.

Its not just Land rover that have this problem. We had this previously on our Playdo. New battery after 2 years due to the low charging rate. On a hot day was lucky to get just on 13volts out of it. They have a modified fuse available that can bump up the voltage.
Interesting read can be had here
charging rate

That thread re battery voltage and charging runs 10 plus pages - it is quite an education.

I am glad I have a nice simple reliable predicable LR3 rather than one of those complicated high tech far east things - quite an eye opener.

As to the funny fuse, it strikes me as a fix one might see on a Series unit, (if they even have fuses) - it might even brighten the "dash" light.

Well I suppose Series vehicles have generators rather than alternators so best one just drive them during the day and park them in front of the waterhole after dark.

Hi bbyer and it was a learning curve for me too in the end.

The Toyota owners, because of the much simpler low voltage operating setup the of Toyotas, get a big benefit from LeighW’s “fuse”.

this is not only not required with the way Land Rover’s charged system worked, up until the latest D4s, meant you didn’t have the extremely low operating voltages.

These new D4s can have NO operating voltage at all, and I’m not sure that this is intended but it is happening on an all to regular basis.

I had a good chuckle on the FFRR site where one yank had had enough of the Stop/Start crap in his RR and worked out he could defeat it by removing the negative lead of the Stop/Start’s battery.

I have been meaning to contact him to see if this has any effect on the average operating voltage of his alternator.