Thread: Urgent help - Multiple critical faults on D3

AnD3rew, did you open your switch up after you'd changed it ? I always open mine to get confidence that it was actually the issue. Here's my most recent one :ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417211326.086512.jpg

I'd assume these are a part that just needs to be replaced? Has anyone given a go at repairing them? Even just with some circuit board cleaner etc as a temp fix?

You can't refit them once they've come out as they are spring loaded. Personally I think they are a service item and should be changed every 3 years to avoid issues. My car is on it's third one in 9 years. The one pictured above was probably dodgy for at least 12 months before I changed it. I always keep a spare in the car ...

Originally Posted by Epic pooh

You can't refit them once they've come out as they are spring loaded.

IIRC the spring can be reset - I R&R'd mine just to see how its done.

It probably can but I've never refitted one as the instructions I followed explicitly say not to refit.

That and I've always taken pleasure in seeing just how far gone they are inside. The pic doesn't do justice to the amount of arcing that had gone on in that one.

I've put an Italian made one in this time to see how long that lasts (have a genuine one under the seat in case it dies earlier than a ford/LR part).

Originally Posted by BobD

With those symptoms, Neil, I would lay money on the brake light switch. It is exactly what happened to my D4 and then it finally failed completely and had to be towed.


When it plays up the computers think the brakes are on and hence won't let you accelerate, amongst other things. You can drive fine until you brake, often at a corner, and then the switch will play up and the car will go crazy, until it turns off and you can drive normally for a while until a brake application sets it off again.


Bob

Cheers Bob,

Symptoms certainly feel electric, certainly not fuel starvation etc, but just to be sure running some diesel injector cleaner through fuel.
interestingly talking to my brother a former electrical engineer.
he says most shops are looking at what the diagnostics are telling them but then not thinking about the causation or the root cause so to speak, not going back to the source why the fault appears in the first instance they immediately change the part that has shown the faults rather than what may have caused the fault in the first place.
anyway, 2 weeks of running fine then today again 4 times, each and every time around a corner or up a hill etc. i'm going to investigate the brake switch further.

Cheers,
Neil.

Originally Posted by Graeme

IIRC the spring can be reset - I R&R'd mine just to see how its done.

Please explain! I replaced my properly working one a brand newie as a pre-emptive attack and I now keep the 'old' one as a spare

How do I reset the old one if I need it one day?

Regards
Trevor

Hi Balanda Chris, I have a 2006 Dicso 3, I replaced the battery end of October, and just found out it has hole in it so as been leaking acid everywhere, have flushed it out as best as I can, now I have heaps of issues and faults, maybe I've fried trans ECU like you??? Does anyone have any suggestions to best clean all the battery acid and where to go from here??? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank Pete

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