first Issue with the New to me D3

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Originally Posted by Rich84

Your faults do seem to indicate low system voltage or one of the common "short" faults that T5 platform cars have (brake light switch, brake light bulb, etc). Note the "communication failure" messages - the various computers simply will fail to operate with insufficient voltage and you will get the lost communication error. Normally the alt on our cars doesn't fail slowly over time, the diode pack at the back literally self destructs in an instant and it's all over - charge fault light should come on (mine did when alternator died). I also got a whirring noise like a dead bearing, smoke (!) and voltage just under 12 at idle.

Once voltage dropped under 10 I started having real problems - numerous faults (including F gear error), transmission allowing engine to rev to 4500 then brutally slamming the next gear, no power. New battery and alternator and all good again.

The only time something like this ever happened again, as I said earlier, I had been listening to the stereo for a couple of hours while installing an auto trans cooler. I let the car run with the faults for about five minutes, turned off and restarted, and all has been well since.

The battery in these cars, for reasons I don't fully understand yet, seems to play an essential role in the electrical system and balancing out voltage etc. In all other cars I've owned or maintained, if the battery is low but the engine is running, the car will not suffer any problems at all - it will just drive normally and charge the battery. In our LRs, the system voltage appears to be affected directly by the battery, and if the battery has a dead cell or is a bit low, the system will experience cascading errors as you have experienced.

I would attempt to swap the battery for a known good one to see if that makes a difference, and thoroughly clean the terminals at the same time. I was able to use the battery from a Triton in an emergency once - you could see if one of your mates has a battery that will work.

EDIT: I also noticed your D3 doesn't have the centre LCD - what model is that? I haven't seen that before!

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Its a 2007 My08 D3 'S' model

I've seen the charred remains of an alternator my mate who is a mechanics pulled from a D3 that was towed in to his shop the other week, possibly that's my issue.
i might throw a voltmeter on the battery and run it into the Cab and drive it like that so I can see the voltage when it faults.

the battery was replaced last last year by Austral motors (its got a date written on it and 3 years warranty in nikko 0_0) perhaps the previous owners attempt to resolve the same issue?

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3,and also have a 'Mechanical' solenoid type dual battery isolator fitted by the previous owner also which has been said to again be a 'no no' for the D3 (even though no second battery is fitted)

I think I will start by disconnection both of these and putting the battery on Charge overnight to get it right up to voltage, then test the charge voltage the Alternator is giving? do I need any fancy charger for the D3? or can I just charge it like I normally would with a regulated power supply? (been keeping my Optima going for the better part of 8 years)

Leroy.

That photo of the dash panel is identical to mine - MY07.

DD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich84

EDIT: I also noticed your D3 doesn't have the centre LCD - what model is that? I haven't seen that before!

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Yes noticed that as well - was a bit confused by that as well.

Also my battery is 7 1/2 years old and I accidently left the ignition on for a few hours and the battery was dead as a door nail - not even enough power to light dash lights or internal lights. Wouldn't even jump start where it has done before.

I put it on the SCA smart charger for about 30 mins which put enough power in the battery to start up - lots of lost communication codes but nothing permanent. After driving for a while the battery was back and I have had no issues since.

So if the charging system is working as it is, it will bring flat batteries back if they are still basically OK.

So what I would do is:

Replace the brake switch (they are about $20 and you can do it yourself.

Check your brake lights are all working.

Remove your Manifold Air Pressure sensor - next to the oil filter - and clean it - don't poke anything down the hole and reinstall.

Beg, borrow or steal another battery and put it in.

Clear all code

Go for a drive and see what happens (given the information you have provided you may still EGR codes)

You can do all of the above yourself and may eliminate any cascading issues and may show up any charging issue.

If the problems still exist well you need professional assistance - not from your seller or local mechanic but a good indy or dealer with the right diagnostic gear.

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

Its a 2007 My08 D3 'S' model

I've seen the charred remains of an alternator my mate who is a mechanics pulled from a D3 that was towed in to his shop the other week, possibly that's my issue.
i might throw a voltmeter on the battery and run it into the Cab and drive it like that so I can see the voltage when it faults.

the battery was replaced last last year by Austral motors (its got a date written on it and 3 years warranty in nikko 0_0) perhaps the previous owners attempt to resolve the same issue?

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3,and also have a 'Mechanical' solenoid type dual battery isolator fitted by the previous owner also which has been said to again be a 'no no' for the D3 (even though no second battery is fitted)

I think I will start by disconnection both of these and putting the battery on Charge overnight to get it right up to voltage, then test the charge voltage the Alternator is giving? do I need any fancy charger for the D3? or can I just charge it like I normally would with a regulated power supply? (been keeping my Optima going for the better part of 8 years)

Leroy.

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G'day Leroy,


I had a D3, and now a D4. At some point, I have experienced those lights and more! So....


The D3 - ended up being a faulty brake light. In the end, sent me into crawl mode on the highway. Initially the faults cleared, but progressively got worse. Bulb fixed the problem, but others came with a dying battery. Upside? Replaced all bulbs, the brake switch AND the starter battery - nil further issues.


The D4 - registered gearbox fault and suspension fault three times. Each time, a re-start seemed to fix. Then bang! Would happen again. Every time, it was a bulb... (in this case the headlights). Been four months - no problems!


Good luck - make sure the dealer gets LR to check it out though within your warranty. If it is worse than a bulb or switch, it could cost you mega $$$$

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3

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If you are referring to the winch earth lead then guaranteed that will cause a battery voltage problem because the load monitor will be bypassed, although there could also be other reasons.

Had exactly the same intermittent problems - fault code stated faulty crank position sensor (bloody replaced three times). It eventually turned out to be the negative cable termination on the battery. Replaced the cable with a standard "Battery World" type cable and have not had a problem since.


See post http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...on-sensor.html

Hi There,
Fuel pump gets you every time............. At the time it was suspected either electrical or the fuel pump. Never proven either way, all I know is I lost something special on this day. Neighbours noticed the smoke and called the local fire brigade.

That photo makes me sad Marty :(

Nomad,
which year model?
Had the HPFP recall been done?

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

Called Land rover Australia, checked the VIN they told me all recalls have been done, including the injector pump which was done in 2009 on the vehicle.

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I'm calling BS on this comment from LR!

Land Rover

Notice the date? November 2010... so if it was replaced in 2009 - you still have an old style HPFP which should have been replaced after November 2010!

Hint: it is often easier to get a dealership to bat for you in these recalls.

Good luck!

Rob