I had similar things with 2010 3.0 D4 (sometimes needing second press, steering lock message sometimes). From memory cured with an update of the instrument panel software.
Regards
Gerry
Hi Jon,
My 2009 TDV6 D4 did exact same this morning... It has happened before (requiring a second press), but this time lights would come on for a second and then nothing. Tried it three times, no joy. Then I simply locked and unlocked the car from the remote key, and no issues. I can't help you with the solution, but your annoyance is shared!
Nick
I had similar things with 2010 3.0 D4 (sometimes needing second press, steering lock message sometimes). From memory cured with an update of the instrument panel software.
Regards
Gerry
Definitely get the software update done. This can get to a point where the car will not start at all and will only restart after left locked for a long period or a hard reset is done.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Thats really odd!! I came from a prado to a D4 and the prado just needs a quick push to start and the D4 needs a second or two held in which took a bit to get used to. But never had any issues with mine so far.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
My 2010 D4 did the second button push thing quite a lot when I first picked it up from Sydney and drove it back to Perth across Australia.
Every now and then I get a call from wife saying she can't start the car after a failed first button push. With mine, you need to push the button again to turn the system off before attempting another start with the brake pedal pressed, otherwise, nothing happens at all. That's when I get the call and have to remind her to turn it off before trying to start it again.
Bob
The steering lock was disabled using a Faultmate Extreme diagnostic tool to change the CCF setting. The lock now never operates.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Hi
I've had the same issue (and continue to have intermittent experiences of this). Mine is a MY10 ('09) 3.0 TDV6 SE...
There is one other thread on this forum that relates to this issue, but I haven't got it handy... Similar comments to those already posted in this one.
I had one dealer look at the issue (Bundaberg LR), and they replaced the brake switch, as this can be a cause of the fault.
But... you guessed it... it came back... So it wasn't the brake switch (this time at least)...
I asked another dealer about it when it was getting serviced (Austral LR in Brisbane). The mechanic there was very helpful, and explained the start process that the car goes through. I can't remember it all now, but the guts of it is:
1. brake pedal has to be depressed (brake switch on)
2. ABS sensor has to see some sort of switch - I think this is a pressure switch, which should actuate when the brake pedal is pressed
3. some other checks, that I can't recall (steering lock etc)
Hence, why repairers will replace brake switches...
The mechanic said that in my case, the ABS sensor wasn't seeing the pressure (or whatever it is), so the startup sequence was being 'aborted'. He said to make sure you're 'standing' on the brake pedal.
I find when this occurs (and it still does it sometimes), it's often when the car is hot/warm. When I get in the car, the brake pedal can sometimes be 'soft', and it will travel a fair way to the floor. It's these times when the car won't start.
If I lift my foot off the brake, and then depress again, it is a lot 'harder', and will only get a smaller amount of travel. Generally, the car will start next go...
So that's my fix - lift foot off brake, depress again, make sure you're pressing hard, and she's good to go...
I agree - a little frustrating...![]()
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