Thread: D4 ride difference 2010/11 to 2013?

Do you put a new seal kit in when you replace the shocks only?
I know it is recommended just want to check if it is necessary.

A seal kit was included with each shock, including 2 large o-rings even though the shocks were pre-fitted with them. However I needed one to replace one pushed out of its groove and pinched. The sequence of the shaft seals is: o-ring, plastic collar, o-ring, plastic collar, coned collar. washer curved upwards.

To remove the chamber from the old shock I clamped the shock sideways in a small vice then used a lever under the locating tab. To refit I held the shock vertically then thumped the shock onto a block of wood a few times. Refitting the clamp around the dust protectors on the rears can be fiddly.

Last time I removed the inner front guards expecting easier access but decided at the time not to do so again due to excessive time removing headlights, wheel-arch flares etc for very little, if any, benefit. However under 2 of the 3 front top nuts is a stepped bracket that makes accessing the inner nut quite difficult, but perhaps easier with the inner guard removed. On the first shock change in 2010 I had not refitted the bracket under the inner nut, instead hooking the bracket on the stud over the top of the nut and only using the more accessible nut to clamp the bracket. This greatly improves access to the inner nut. I use a ratchet ring spanner to access the nuts.

Thanks Greame, I have some Koni FSDs that I bought for my D3 and then didn't fit due to the bad reports. I bought them from the UK so didn't bother trying to return them. I will get some seal kits for when I install them.
My D4 shocks are getting a little wallowy so I'm thinking I'll put the FSD's on and see how they go. Once the deteriate I'll replace them with the latest D4 shocks.