Do they get hot with the indicators on?
If not, something is wrong - need to be wired in parallel, not series as mentioned.
Do they get hot with the indicators on?
If not, something is wrong - need to be wired in parallel, not series as mentioned.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I re-wired in parallel and now the green trailer light in the dash flashes on in time with the blinkers... Uh?
- 21w load resistors on each
- there is an electric braking system installed for the caravan .. ( not sure if that is helping cause issue with detection )
- there is an ECB bullbar fitted with parking and indicator led lights.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberIt’s meant to only show the trailer symbol when the indicators are on. That’s normal and indicates it’s working. The light is never solidly lit.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						ok thanks. It's wired in and getting hot.
It raises the question for me though... am i getting all the features the car is meant to deliver when towing - such as as anti sway, different gear ratios etc...? to be honest I'm new to the Discovery and caravans, so not sure exactly how it's meant to behave when in combination.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
In my experience, when the car correctly detects that it has a trailer connected (via the turn signals- the car sends a milli volt signal down both L and R indicator every few seconds confirming it has a trailer connected) throttle response is modified, anti-sway (stability control) is amplified and vehicle braking is modified (I believe more bias to the rear brakes) and the EAS is also adjusted, so that the car does not auto level when stopped.
Im not sure if shifting patterns in the transmission are modified, I’ve not noticed. I have found that putting the transmission in S mode gives better performance, this is because the line pressure in the gearbox is higher in S mode, so it will hold gears longer, especially when towing. However I’ve had no dramas towing in “D” on long hauls.
I note that you also have electric trialer brakes on your camper, you need to ensure this is correctly adjusted so that the trailer does not “push” or “drag” the car when braking. If set up correctly, both car and trailer brake together. Combined with the cars ABS and braking adaptations, a very safe towing set up. I have the Tekonsha P3 electric brake controlled in my D4 and this allows me to adjust the voltage applied to the brakes, thereby adjusting how much braking is done. I found this handy as the camper weight changes each time depending how much water, camping gear, food, etc is stowed.
Hope this helps,
cheers,
Eric
Yeah, we also have a P3 and it's neat to push the brake and get a reading on the P3's screen of how much pressure the brakes are applying.
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